Rudolf73
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I don't mind a 3/4 wrap for falling and such. Are you looking for just the handle or the saw with the handle?
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I don't mind a 3/4 wrap for falling and such. Are you looking for just the handle or the saw with the handle?
huntingrob
ArboristSite Guru
Heaps of 372xpw's in the states for sale [emoji6]
weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
If I found a handle for my 562 or 385, or even the 281 I'd probably grab it, I get the feeling I'll be buying a saw though.
Looking at bringing in just a wrap handle from the states is silly money, might as well freight a saw.
weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
On the ground - nothing much.
As a rank amateur climber I've felt a few times it could be handy, when I swap from a top handle to a real saw I miss the freedom of different ways I can cut.
Weedy MCW your thoughts please, i dont know much about 2 4d my instincts says the lands stuffed for a bit more than 2 weeks perhaps a lot depends upon rain fall soil type or if can be harrow over to speed thing up, wanna let the chap know if wish.
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...antly-sprayed-with-2-4-d.279146/#post-5345979
Hi,
A new guy was doing an application in a wildlife area and grabbed the wrong jug. We were using glyphosate, and he sprayed 2,4-d amine (40% concentration).... a lot of it. Luckily I caught it right away, and it was only applied to about a 1/3 acre area. It was applied at a rate of 3.5 cups / acre. The customer is supposed to plant bare root tree seedlings (tamarack, white pine, swamp white oak, and bur oak) in this area in two weeks. I have informed the customer, but I need to get back to him with more guidance as to what to do.
Thanks,
C
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...antly-sprayed-with-2-4-d.279146/#post-5345979
Hi,
A new guy was doing an application in a wildlife area and grabbed the wrong jug. We were using glyphosate, and he sprayed 2,4-d amine (40% concentration).... a lot of it. Luckily I caught it right away, and it was only applied to about a 1/3 acre area. It was applied at a rate of 3.5 cups / acre. The customer is supposed to plant bare root tree seedlings (tamarack, white pine, swamp white oak, and bur oak) in this area in two weeks. I have informed the customer, but I need to get back to him with more guidance as to what to do.
Thanks,
C
howz them soil write up reports going McW a few late nites eh, i try to keep up with the sciency soil stuff but it so complex does my head in, like 4 games of chess at once
powered up even at nite the new wind turbine ok it suffers from dirty air more than the old one but once going > 400 watts down the pipe
green light is good
oh goodie now i can buy a ecco battery chain saw
green light is good
oh goodie now i can buy a ecco battery chain saw
chippy
Addicted to ArboristSite
what motor or more correctly, generator are you using? A mate of mine built one with a Fisher & Paykel washing machine motor.
Rudolf73
Addicted to ArboristSite
Talking about soil and stuff, where did you buy your slammer tool? They seem to be hard to find online.
weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
2-4-d is pretty much a non issue in that case, not residual, no root or seed activity, it's pretty much only active on green tissue. I'll hunt some references for you, but it's not a problem.
There are issues with 2-4-d, but it's not what you are talking about. And 3.5 cups per acre? 3l/ha isn't anything to get your knickers in a twist about.
lot who can do build em from machine parts, mine wos a Chinese kit from ebay my 1st was a very old second hand rutland boat 90 watt fan,, this is well they say its 400 watt ffan 160 Pv yet to fully check the input and not stickin my tongue on the wires
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hybrid-S...20?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item20f57bb6d0
yeah i tried to look it up for some other but the web page was kaput so maybe,,,, no wait here it is http://www.theslammertool.com/
not cheap but after some years of use very worth it and well made my son shall dig my last hole and inherit it
weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
@derwoodii Page 8 of this label has plant back periods.
http://www.herbiguide.com.au/Labels/24DAM625_55046-0209.PDF
Looks like my memory was a bit off, there must be some residual activity and efficacy on (probably) early root or green tip growth. Might have some effect on a bare root seedling.
15mm of rain(If the soil was dry) plus two weeks would be total arse covering.
http://www.herbiguide.com.au/Labels/24DAM625_55046-0209.PDF
Looks like my memory was a bit off, there must be some residual activity and efficacy on (probably) early root or green tip growth. Might have some effect on a bare root seedling.
15mm of rain(If the soil was dry) plus two weeks would be total arse covering.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Hi old son.
You're in luck as 2,4-D has no nasty long term soil residue effects. Within a few days you're good to go. Been seriously under the pump and well and truly on Struggle Street for the last month with work. Just finished writing up a funded herbicide trial (12:30am) that I have to present at a meeting tomorrow. It's been absolutely doing my head in. When you're dealing with $45,000 of government funding you have to make sure your i's are dotted and your t's are crossed. I'd happily upload the report here but can't yet as the guys who paid for it haven't even seen the final copy at this stage
I can confidentally say that I will never ever touch another government funded trial. Elders is happy that I did though. I can think of better stuff to do to be honest.Soil science is a very confusing subject. You may think I'm a guru but in all honesty dedicated soil scientists are in a whole new league. They make me look like a retard
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Don't even talk to me about Pine trees Andrew. I took Monday off this week to drop a couple of biggies for the local golf club as a "love" job. I met them out there a few weeks ago and we had it all planned out. I arrive Monday morning and they've totally changed their mind and now want these heavy leaners dropped against their lean so we can "save" a few neighbouring pines. When we'd met a few weeks back they wanted these pines removed too. I should have walked away but no, dopey me tells them that for one their pissy little tractor isn't going to cut it. We contact the local quarry (1km down the road) and arrange their huge loader to come up for some extra pull. Anyway turns out that the extra pull was too much for my 10 tonne high tensile chains. Chain lets go mid pull with a massive gunshot noise which scared the sh*t out of everybody (we were all well clear luckily when the loader started pulling), pine sits back, and BANG shoots a huge crack from the ground straight up the guts to my back cut. I recut the face at a different angle a bit higher up and BANG. Mid cut another huge crack shoots up the trunk. It was at this stage I realised we were fuc*ed. We ended up moving the loader to the side and reattaching the chain so that when the tree finally let go it wasn't heading towards the greenskeeper shed. It ended up collapsing backwards through the neighbouring pine tree which was pretty well holding it up at this stage bringing most of that one down too. Nothing damaged but you should see what the snapped chain did to the loader bucket. It was like it had been hit point blank with a shotgun. Love jobs. They should be avoided at all costs
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
What Farmoz hasn't mentioned there is soil pH. The table they've got on the label for plantback periods is the worst case scenario to most definitely leave them well and truly clear of a lawsuit
WidowMaker_1
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weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
Now that's a post I can "like", Matt's original post not so much.
weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
While we are talking about pulling trees, I've done a few lately and I think I've got a method down pat. But it's not like I've ever been shown a "correct" way.
Lately I've been getting my pull rope or chain nice and high, cutting a face that gets me a hinge in decent wood and plunge cutting the back cut. Adding a wedge from both sides and then doing the double check with tractor driver and tagging the backstrap.
Getting the pull rope high is obvious, but when a ladder doesn't do the job I've been shooting a throw line up with an APTA - as I throw like forest gump does differential equations.
Face cut depth I've been working with as little as I think I can get away with, mostly these haven't been the most trustworthy trees and all I'm looking for is solid hinge wood.
Plunge cutting the back cut and leaving a holding strap seems good, just gives a minute to double check everything before the noisy bit. Leaves the wedges in a weird spot, but they stop the tree setting back which is all they really need to do.
Anybody else got anything to add? Cos it tends to be something you can't really afford to **** up most of the time.
Lately I've been getting my pull rope or chain nice and high, cutting a face that gets me a hinge in decent wood and plunge cutting the back cut. Adding a wedge from both sides and then doing the double check with tractor driver and tagging the backstrap.
Getting the pull rope high is obvious, but when a ladder doesn't do the job I've been shooting a throw line up with an APTA - as I throw like forest gump does differential equations.
Face cut depth I've been working with as little as I think I can get away with, mostly these haven't been the most trustworthy trees and all I'm looking for is solid hinge wood.
Plunge cutting the back cut and leaving a holding strap seems good, just gives a minute to double check everything before the noisy bit. Leaves the wedges in a weird spot, but they stop the tree setting back which is all they really need to do.
Anybody else got anything to add? Cos it tends to be something you can't really afford to **** up most of the time.
460cixy
Addicted to ArboristSite
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