351 considering mods

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Fastshivy

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I have a Husky 351 i bought new about 10 years ago. The saw probably has about 600 very hard hours on it. I like the balance and feel of the saw, but it is starting to get a little weak. No major problems ever with saw... compression is 120psi and still runs good idles good etc. bottom seems good. I want to use this as a back up saw and thinking about going through it. What mods would you make if the p/c needs to be changed...bigger bore? what will fit? Other mods? How to do?
I like this saw a lot and don't mind dumping a little money in to it. Thanks in advance for any help. I read a lot of threads add nauseum and they seem to get off track pretty quick :)
 
Ditto Sunfish if you have the bucks to justify that. You can grind on the original 351 cylinders as well. Bottom line is there are a pile of options as the 340-345-350-351-353-346-346xp have a lot of parts in common. And parts are both plentiful and reasonably cheap should you either mess up or choose to go a different direction. AND starting with a 351 set of cases, you avoid some of the systemic issues with sealing the bottom ends typical of the 340-350 plastic variant's. But you still have the intake boot to deal with. A 346xp top end tweaked along with a 357 intake / air filter setup and muffler mod is about as far as an average guy without machine tools & associated skills can go. If you like to tinker...lots of "cheap" fun too. Careful, you won't end up with just one after a successful venture with that 351. (One of the BEST saw chassis to start this game with BTW)

Typical new OEM top end:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-3...858?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5646a86a62

The ONLY after market option that really makes sense:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-c...490?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46278d938a
 
thanks I do like to tinker and have many tools. Yes I am concerned if I am successful I won't stop there :) I use to work on air cooled Volkswagens big bore kits porsch distributers, lightened flywheels etc. etc.....and the beat goes on.........
 
thanks I do like to tinker and have many tools. Yes I am concerned if I am successful I won't stop there :) I use to work on air cooled Volkswagens big bore kits porsch distributers, lightened flywheels etc. etc.....and the beat goes on.........
haha and the beat goes on YEAH....
 
I agree with a couple of the other members--go factory cylinder 346xp--add a rim sprocket if it has a spur--added rpm's tend to kick chain off with a spur--open up the factory muffler and or add 1 more exhaust port and also your muffler might already be open enough as my saw was a restrictive epa model--I took my factory cylinder and opened up the exhaust port with a carbide bit and polished the exhaust port--match your muffler gasket and the back side of the muffler to your new exhaust size--very restrictive from the factory--mine runs at 15000 rpm can go a little more but no need--runs cooler and less fuel now as I use mine to cut wood all the time. This makes a reliable and powerful setup.
 
revisiting this idea what parts would i need to change to a 357 intake? Do you have to change the carb as well? I am thinking about the nwp pc from baileys not sur if i wil;l gain much. The factory PC for 346XP is pretty pricey Any thoughts?
 
revisiting this idea what parts would i need to change to a 357 intake? Do you have to change the carb as well? I am thinking about the nwp pc from baileys not sur if i wil;l gain much. The factory PC for 346XP is pretty pricey Any thoughts?
Best to leave the 346 intake & add a 357 carb. I would not use a nwp PC... Get a OEM 346 PC from Spike60 here for $200, it's worth the $!!!
 
Thanks I was leaning toward oem. Slammed at work now good late fall project!
 
Ok Here is where I am at, mocked up a 346XP oem cylinder and squish without a gasket is .023.... solder measures even on both sides so my crank and bearings plus the new piston appear straight as an arrow.. Here is my problem the skirt on the new piston is kissing the crankshaft on the downward stroke. It looks like the bore is slightly bigger on the 346xp vs the 351 piston and possibly the wrist pin is mounted slightly higher. The curvature of the counter weight on the crankshaft seems to come in to play with the slightly larger bore. It appears the bore is only a couple of mm larger.
Can you machine the skirts on these pistons? Love the set up and squish just don't want problems with piston. Any thoughts on how to correct this?
 
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