Would a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup truck be better for me??

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that is good news to hear. I don't know anyone with one of the 6 speeds. 25.5k will put the hurt to weak components in a hurry.
That kind of weighty hurts my fuel consumption the most in the hills around northern Michigan. Old mister MAX gets thirsty....maybe I need a chip....:cheers:
Yeah I've towed around 24-25k around 100 miles one way 3 times. 2 long mountain pulls of 3.5 and 3 miles at 9 and 10% grades plus all the shorter up and down we have. I love the exhaust brake. The mileage was around 11 doing that.
 
got a old 75 chevy c30 350 4spd 4.88 the most it pulled 20k a little sluggish because of the gearing and tall tires ( 9.00-16 )
it gets 9.3 mpg loaded or unloaded.
 
Like mike said earlier, most 3/4 and 1-ton (SRW) trucks are the same outside of he badging. The difference is (possibly) GM used to put a weaker rear-end on their 3/4 tons (Gas or Diesel) than their 1-tons. IDK if this is still true or not. I've never plwed, but know those who have and have played with more than a few different makes of DRW and SRW 1/tons. For snow and those weights, I'd do a Ford or or Chevy with an auto (the only choice available att) or a Dodge with a stick. Their autos are good but I like a stick in a truck. Your mileage may vary. The Fords (and maybe the other two) may have an additional spring on the rear of the SRW 1-ton but that would be about the only difference.

To the person not understanding the big tire and rim craze: The tires are mostly an aesthetic thing, with some additional benefits (minor) of ground clearance for the pumpkins. The reason 19.5's are so popular (outside of wanna-be mini semis) are that running a larger rim on an equal size tire (say 265-75/19.5 and 265-75/17 is that the 19.5" rimmed tire will have a shorter sidewall. This allows less flex (squirm) under load and holds shape better resulting in better tire life and traction. It also results in a more expensive tire (lasting longer costs more per tire) and a rougher ride, but it's a work truck not an Escalade. The trade-offs are worth it for some.
 
I'm buying a new 2015 Ram 2500 Tradesman. I should have it in a few weeks. It's a Reg. Cab. 4x4, 6.4L Hemi, auto, 4.10 anti-spin rear. The 3/4 tons also come with the 11.5" rearend. This one has the 5500 lbs. front diff. I want the basic work truck model w/manual 4x4 shift on the floor. Here are some of the options/groups- snow chief, tow pkg & 5th wheel/gooseneck, pop. equip, power & remote, chrome app. groups, brake controller.

I'm keeping my current 2007 Ram 1500 QC SB 4x4, 5.7L Hemi, auto, 3.92 anti-spin rear, that I bought new, it only has 57K miles on it. I put a Fisher SD 7.5' Plow on it two seasons ago, it's paid for and we're paying cash for the new truck and plow. Only thing now is to decide on which Fisher Plow to get.

Thanks, NYH1.
 
Get a boss plow if ya got a decent dealer- simpler electrics. That multitasking electronics that Western / Fisher/Blizzard ( all made right down the street from me) are a pita to trace problems. Additionally The robotic welding is cranked up too fast and not enough heat in the welds - been an ongoing problem for a while now. I have had all three although my Blizzard was from before Westerns parent company acquired Blizzard for the patents on the expanding plow. That was one heavy plow but very productive , only reason not still running it is I wore it out and of course Western changed all the parts so no support any more. Got Boss V and a straight been good so far. No broken welds and no electric problems over the past 4 seasons. I did develop a seal leak in the lift ram on the straight but that is not Boss's fault as that is a rather generic part, not mfg by them. ( goes for all the plow mfgs hydro cylinders are are a purchased part) Western, fisher, Blizzard- hydro manifold and pump made in house - Boss is a commercial purchase (forget who right now so options if the dealer doesn't have) same thing on SnoWay ( and thats what Blizzard used to be as well).
 

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