bodhisoma
ArboristSite Operative
Greetings,
I've got an OWB (Central Classic 5036 if memory serves). In previous years, for the end-of-year maintenance, I've scraped off the hard creosote shellac that's formed on the inside and applied a layer of clean motor oil.
But it occurred to me that if I'm worried about rust, and the chimney is covered (so only humidity is making it inside), won't that creosote itself be protecting the metal from moisture and corrosion? And scraping it off just to apply fresh motor oil is a lot of wasted effort?
Or do I need to be worried about that creosote trapping moisture against the metal and causing/accelerating corrosion?
While I can't have any certainty it's waterproof, I do want to stress that the creosote is glazed on pretty hard and uniformly, and takes quite an effort to chip it away.
Should I just give the loser bits a scrape and then apply the oil to the creosote, thus waterproofing the surface just the same?
Thanks much in advance for the replies!
I've got an OWB (Central Classic 5036 if memory serves). In previous years, for the end-of-year maintenance, I've scraped off the hard creosote shellac that's formed on the inside and applied a layer of clean motor oil.
But it occurred to me that if I'm worried about rust, and the chimney is covered (so only humidity is making it inside), won't that creosote itself be protecting the metal from moisture and corrosion? And scraping it off just to apply fresh motor oil is a lot of wasted effort?
Or do I need to be worried about that creosote trapping moisture against the metal and causing/accelerating corrosion?
While I can't have any certainty it's waterproof, I do want to stress that the creosote is glazed on pretty hard and uniformly, and takes quite an effort to chip it away.
Should I just give the loser bits a scrape and then apply the oil to the creosote, thus waterproofing the surface just the same?
Thanks much in advance for the replies!