Stihl 029av to 039 conversion

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GoBigBlue1984

Right-wing conservative blue collar American
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Will the 029AV take the 039 jug and slug. I've never opened up a 029AV and if so I'll probably add it to my firewood fleet.

Also, can I use permatex hi-temp gasket sealer between head and pan? Red tube for up to 650F?

Thanks in advance for any and all info.
 
Yes, it's the same saw body. Exact.
Probably, but a case sealant like dirko, yamabond, hondabond, or permatex motoseal would be more fuel resistant.
It's a popular conversion. Go for it
 
The sealant you use had to be oil and gas resistant. The once recommended by Kevin will work great. I use yamabond on this series saws. It works good and the tube doesn't seem to dry out before you can get the most uses out of it.
 
Thanks guys I'm gonna go for it, I'll hold off on the high temp permatex and ask my stihl dealer if they sell the dirko.
 
Muffler mods are great for the 039. They are easy to do, and there are several threads about them. You will have to retune the saw, especially on the high side so it does not over rev and score your new piston/cylinder. It may also be an opportunity to look at the carb and put in a kit (unless it is working like it should) just a thought. If its not broke don't fix it, but if it could use a freshen up -- the kit is not much and the experience of doing it is worth quite a bit in my book. Happy Sawing.
 
I was quite impressed by the one I did. Farmertec kit by huztl was pretty good. Muf mod like SOD64 said[emoji106].
 
Quick question is one I've wondered about since my addiction to chainsaws took off in the last 2-3 years or so. I am a tool maker by trade, outside of timing issues what would be a drawback to setting my cylinder up in my haas CNC lathe and boring it out to 39mm and then sending it off to the platers and having the ID chromed to .0005 per side or even .001 per side. These cylinders get finish honed anyways. At first glance it seems logical. We send parts to get flash chromed or nickel plated 1 every week or two anyways. Then just stick a meteor 39mm piston kit in it. Unless the connecting rod and crank would need changing. Just a thought, what do you guys think?
 
The biggest problem I found in doing this swap is whether or not to remove the bottom pan in the motor. I couldn't remove the bar mount stud that goes into the pan. I tried double nutting and vise grips to no avail. I've since learned that you can take a dremel cutting wheel and grind 2 flats on the large portion of the stud and get a wrench on it. I just left the pan on and finaggled the cylinder, crank, and piston into its position and bolted it down. And there's only 1 position for all these to be in to install it without removing the bar stud.
Aside from that, I'd check the manifold boot for cracks, I'd replace the impulse line and fuel line and fuel filter.
And then search you tube and here and come up with a "happy medium" muffler mod. Somewhere between adding/enlarging perimeter holes behind the deflector and removing the center section altogether. On one of mine, I enlarged existing holes and slightly opened up the deflector. It performed better, but not much. On my ported 039/ms310 I opened up the perimeter, drilled a couple holes in the center depression, and considerably opened up the deflector to about 1/2" × 1-1/4". Somewhat loud but very snappy
 
Quick question is one I've wondered about since my addiction to chainsaws took off in the last 2-3 years or so. I am a tool maker by trade, outside of timing issues what would be a drawback to setting my cylinder up in my haas CNC lathe and boring it out to 39mm and then sending it off to the platers and having the ID chromed to .0005 per side or even .001 per side. These cylinders get finish honed anyways. At first glance it seems logical. We send parts to get flash chromed or nickel plated 1 every week or two anyways. Then just stick a meteor 39mm piston kit in it. Unless the connecting rod and crank would need changing. Just a thought, what do you guys think?
It's possible, and has been done, but it's not cost efficient for the average joe. Complete huztl kit is about $50 I think.
 
It's possible, and has been done, but it's not cost efficient for the average joe. Complete huztl kit is about $50 I think.


I use a ton of those kits.

For that series Stihl it is t worth it to me to put in a Meteor P&C kit... Locally these saws only sell for $225-275.

I have been very happy with the Huztl kits, and I have about a dozen saws with the 039 top ends in them and everyone is happy.


I would recommend putting in a set of Caber Rings though instead of the iron rings in the Huztl kits.
 
Where is the cheapest place to get the huztl kit, agreed caber rings would be ideal.

These saws only bring around the same here 225-300. How much does the meteor p&c cost? Baileys I guess would have those?
 
Regarding the stud going into the pan, I always remove those so I can clean things up properly. Never had a hard time getting one out. I usually double nut them but sometimes use a 430 Channellock. I've done a lot of the conversions to 039/MS390.
 
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