DHT splitter modified

[TimberWolf530]

I have the other table on my 27 that i got in December. While I love the splitter over many other brands boy do I hate that table. No matter how hard I tighten all the bolts it inevitably loosens up a little and tilts down just enough to throw the wood on the ground. I've also had to move at lightening speed to keep a large split or piece of log from vibrating off and falling on the motor. It looks like the new version fixes that by be larger and by not having a curve to it.

Any chance of a trade in? I was really thinking of fabricating one myself because I'm really unsatisfied with the one I have but would rather go with the new one.

I also had the problem of logs wanting to vibrate off onto my motor. I drilled 4 half inch holes along the edge of the table by the motor, and inserted 4 bolts/nuts. Now the wood vibrates up against the bolts, but won't slide off on my motor. Quick, cheap, effective.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I also ran into the bigger logs falling off onto my log splitter's motor before I could catch them. My solution was to build a table frame out of ordinary 2 x 2's that sits over the motor. Now the table fame catches the big logs if they fall and protects the motor from any impact. I think DHT offers a rest that mounts onto the side that should do the same thing as the side table that Sam made above.

 

[Babaganoosh]

I'd actually like to have a table on both sides. Maybe I'll buy the new one and see about connecting the one I have onto the side where you stand.

 

[Sam.coots]

I believe some hydraulic adjustments are in order if I want a log lift. Otherwise catapults are cool too.
Is there a control difference in the "a"/"b" port of a basic non Detent hydraulic valve? I ordered a needle valve hoping this would help. We will see.
All credit for camera work goes to my daughter. Little shaky. But she followed the rules. "No fat dad in the camera shot" so it's a win.


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[dave_dj1]

I don't think there is a general difference in the valve ports. What I did to slow mine down was to use much smaller diameter hose, seems to work well. Catapult and wood not cool
I have heard that you could insert a dime with a pinhole in it to act as an orifice.
Nice mods by the way.
Dave

 

[Babaganoosh]

The log lift puts a lot of side to side motion on it. I'd think about making another leg for it to sit on. Or just split with it hitched to something .

 

[Sam.coots]

The log lift puts a lot of side to side motion on it. I'd think about making another leg for it to sit on. Or just split with it hitched to something .

Part of the problem is the splitter beam is still using the quick release mechanism of its previous life as a horizontal/vertical splitter. Some more welding may be in order.


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[Babaganoosh]

I'm definitely thinking about going with a double table and making a taller wedge that doesn't have as much angle on it. That way I can make slices and then stack the slices. We do that on my buddies home made splitter and you can really crank out the wood.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Part of the problem is the splitter beam is still using the quick release mechanism of its previous life as a horizontal/vertical splitter. Some more welding may be in order.


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You could try bolting it first.

 

[JeffHK454]

A simple flow control will slow it down and make it more usable, the ram angle also contributes to the jerky movement. Any kind of flow reducer makes heat so watch your temps.

 

[Sam.coots]

A simple flow control will slow it down and make it more usable, the ram angle also contributes to the jerky movement. Any kind of flow reducer makes heat so watch your temps.

My flow control valve came today. The jerkiness was me trying to feather it with the control valve. When I just pull the valve it smiths out. Hopefully will get put on soon and redo video.


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[muddstopper]

Flow controls only work in one direction. Meaning you might be able to slow the cyl down for the up stroke, but going back down will be just as fast as ever. Using a flow control might not be your best or cheapest option. Brazing up the fitting and then redrilling with about a 1/8-3/32 hole for oil flow is cheap and effective.

 

[VW Splitter]

I built a catapult for my splitter, used it for a couple of years like that. You just had to go easy on the spool valve. I installed the adjustable flow control valves on it and problem fixed. I bet it will help your side to side movement also, easing it up and down slowly.

 

[muddstopper]

Did you use one or two flow control valves

 

[VW Splitter]

I used 2.

 

[JeffHK454]

My flow control valve came today. The jerkiness was me trying to feather it with the control valve. When I just pull the valve it smiths out. Hopefully will get put on soon and redo video.


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Ha..I guess it makes sense that the bounce came from you trying to go real easy on the valve. You don't know what the stroke and closed length of your lift cyl. is?

 

[Sam.coots]

Ha..I guess it makes sense that the bounce came from you trying to go real easy on the valve. You don't know what the stroke and closed length of your lift cyl. is?

It's a 8 inch stroke. I think it is 18ish closed.


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[stevetheboatguy]

Just a thought, but why not just use a adjustable positive stop. I.e a bolt and jam nut on a bracket behind or ahead of your control lever. That way you could only open it so far. ???
Looks like a great mod though I like it.

Steven

 

[JeffHK454]

It's a 8 inch stroke. I think it is 18ish closed.


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I'm thinking of doing something very similar to what you've got going, only difference is I've got a 6" cyl.

I'm hoping if I lower the tail end of cyl. some I can make the shorter stroke give full travel.

 

[Sam.coots]

I'm thinking of doing something very similar to what you've got going, only difference is I've got a 6" cyl.

I'm hoping if I lower the tail end of cyl. some I can make the shorter stroke give full travel.

After I built my rough frame and hinges. I took two pieces of 1 inch and 3/4 conduit pipe (lightweight). One I cut to the closed length of my cylinder the other one fit inside and I could pull it out the 8 inches of my stroke. That way I could play with where my cylinder would set as the table made its upward arc. Lot easier than trying to hold up 20+# cylinder. I'm sure there are better ways but it worked for me.


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