Im keen for some feedback on my draft training video

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Dan@JBT

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I've posted it on the video forum but that doesn't have that same traffic as this one.
My video is a bit of a basic intro to the concepts of rigging techniques, it's still a draft and will likely be the first of many. It focuses more on the rigging than the climbing... let me know what you think, what you'd add, if you think anything on there is unsafe etc. cheers
 
Looks pretty good to me. Pretty straight forward everyday stuff, a good intro.
 
Neat video guy. Wish you narrated a bit you seem very smart would love to hear some voice over narration on the technical parts. Also if I may ask how do you feel the strength of benier vs knot for chocking off a stem.
 
Cheers, RE carabiners vs knots, the issue with using carabiners is when loaded the bend radius of the rope is too low, the rope is sort of 'kinked' at a hard angle around the carabiner so many of the rope fibers are compressed or tensioned and therefore ineffective. Result: strength loss. This is mitigated by adding half hitches before the carabiner: it's the half hitches that are loaded heavily, the carabiner takes minimal force.
 
Good video, Dan.
Mebbe substitute "Chainbrake" vs "Chainbreak"
One other little thing that caught my eye was "half hitch" instead of "marl"

image.jpg
 
?..the marl is (or marlin hitch) is different to a half hitch

Yeah. It's different all right!!!
A marl, not a half hitch is what you should be referring to for that application you are using it for. (Rigging with steel biners; something I do all the time, btw.) Especially if this is a training video.
Google "difference between marl and half hitch"
 
I realize this is a training video but I gotta ask do you guys make all those cuts on small limbs and is that rope not a bit large for limbs? Marline for me, of course that looked like speedline work for me until you got to the log:cheers:
 
cheers, i thought you were saying i miss-named the hitch i used, but you were recommending a it as a substitute, thanks for your feedback, i'll give it a go.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback,
ill take it on board and post another vid before too long
 
I've used a bowline as a termination knot for steel biner applications for around twenty five years. Tie it, dress it, and set it properly, like ropesaddle mentioned (a prerequisite for any knot) and you won't encounter a problem using it. I would not try to use a bowline in a rope with a super hard / tight braid, but I have no use for those kinda lines anyway. yoyoman's video of a bowline loosening demonstrated it took a considerable bit of intentionally jiggling / shaking the line to get a bowline to come undone, and it just isn't gonna happen when lowering a limb or chunk.

Cheers,
Dave
 
I realize this is a training video but I gotta ask do you guys make all those cuts on small limbs and is that rope not a bit large for limbs? I did not see anything a half inch rope could not take and stay withing its swl? Marline for me, of course that looked like speedline work for me:cheers:
I don't always do all of those cuts, the wings were because those pine trees can tear out past the pole belt (even with a scarf) and pull you in. We use the 5/8 rope for most of our rigging. I thought those bits were pretty big... I dont know if I would trust a 1/2" rope to handle them...

Cheers
 
Given that the video is specifically about Pine tree rigging you could add the option for cutting branches flush with the trunk in a single cut. Pines are so predictable you can save a lot of time and fuel with a single cut at the collar.
 
Who is the intended audience?
Its an intro into rigging for apprentices who haven't necessarily seen it before some who have done some climbing, some who will never climb, some who use EWP's, to be discussed in conjunction with theory and followed by practical training.
 
I had a watch, some good work there but it still wasn't clear exactly the intent of the video. Is this to be used as a training video for cert III at tafe/rto? If so, you'd need to bring it a little more in line with best practice rather than what we do every day. Off the top of my head, you'd want to get rid of "two hands on the saw wherever possible", and probably go towards tying knots rather than using a karabiner. It did look from the video that the marl was set quite far from the hinge, giving the potential for the the butt of the limb to kick back if the rigging line was over tensioned and not allowed to run. Setting the marl as close as practical to the hinge is a good practice generally.

I've taught cert II a little, and lead some discussions at cert III. If it were me putting together a training video for a cert III rigging class I'd be focussing more on the specifics and details fot he actual rigging - when to use a marl (extra friction) vs a straight running bowline, trying to use a running bowline at a fork on smooth gummed barks then a marl to shorten it up for example. Then the implications of tying it left/right. Putting an overhand knot at the pulley while scarfing, rigging forces and loads. Some good threads on here about light rigging/loading, and CTF, WLL and MBS should be part of the course materials. Probably going into the implications of tip tying vs butt tying logs when lowering off in terms of safety and shock loading.

One thing I've tried pushing which received a lukewarm reception at TAFE was self lowering using stubs as friction. I think it's a practical and useful skill that every climber should have up their sleave, particularly new climbers who are unlikely to have trained groundies or much equipment at their disposal, and who are likely to end up with simple easy jobs to do in their own time. It's a technique I still use on a regular basis.
 
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