chains won't self feed?

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On my grinder (511A), even though I have tried to center the vise, I found that the Right cutters would come out a hair longer, without any adjustments. So, following another, old engineering concept (it's easier to take more metal off than to add metal back on), this is the sequence I follow:

- grind all of the Left cutters;
- grind ONE of the Right cutters - compare it back-to-back with one of the Left cutters;
- typically adjust the chain stop forward 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and lower the wheel 1/2 turn or so;
- grind the remaining Right cutters;
- back the chain stop off a full 1/2 turn, lower the wheel a bit more, then chase the Right gullets (goes fast);
- chase the Left gullets (goes fast);
- do the Left depth gauges;
- do the Right depth gauges.

Goes faster than it sounds in practice, but I could still never make money doing it this way! Doing the Left and Right depth gauges separately is more important if you are working with low-kickback chain that has the tie strap bumpers, but still makes a difference one standard chain.

(Have we lost ValleyFirewood yet?)

Philbert
 
On my grinder (511A), even though I have tried to center the vise, I found that the Right cutters would come out a hair longer, without any adjustments. So, following another, old engineering concept (it's easier to take more metal off than to add metal back on), this is the sequence I follow:

- grind all of the Left cutters;
- grind ONE of the Right cutters - compare it back-to-back with one of the Left cutters;
- typically adjust the chain stop forward 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and lower the wheel 1/2 turn or so;
- grind the remaining Right cutters;
- back the chain stop off a full 1/2 turn, lower the wheel a bit more, then chase the Right gullets (goes fast);
- chase the Left gullets (goes fast);
- do the Left depth gauges;
- do the Right depth gauges.

Goes faster than it sounds in practice, but I could still never make money doing it this way! Doing the Left and Right depth gauges separately is more important if you are working with low-kickback chain that has the tie strap bumpers, but still makes a difference one standard chain.

(Have we lost ValleyFirewood yet?)

Philbert

my work flow isn't much different from yours. i also use a 511a for cutters and a 511tsc with a 5/16" wheel for depth gauges. big difference is that after grinding, the cutters get finished with a timberline. the timberline not only makes a sharper chain but shows you with harsh honesty how well you dressed your wheel and whether or not your grind was deep enough. i only do that for my own chains and for the hombre i cut firewood with. i always use a 7/32" or 3/16" pfred to scratch my back.
 
Well the whole deal sounds retarded but I'll take a stab at it. You switched chains with the customer and got a thicker gauge chain on there and he got yours. If it happened you better get ahold of the other guy before his MS440 throws a chain......
 
I don't grind right or left in any specific order. I normally just start with whatever the grinder happens to be set at, or if it's a goobered up hand filed chain I pick the shorter ones to do first.
I adjust the grinder between right and left so they are the same length, depth etc... generally just a small adjustment.

I don't get super fussy on the grinding job, I guess we can call it a "woods" grind. It's worked just fine for a while, not sure what has changed.

Pics are a few different teeth, they are all ground the same though. Yes I realize the chisel corner isn't 100%. I normally get the bulk of them but also try to not remove too much material. Sort of a "bad habit" of customers getting upset otherwise when their cutters are 1/2 ground off to get it perfect.

Last pic is setup of grinders. Green one is the one I'm using for the cutters and the middle Oregon one is for rakers. Bar grinder on the far left (yes the wheel is about worn out, I'm getting my money's worth!)


20151008_175105.jpg 20151008_175124.jpg 20151008_175132.jpg
20151008_180923.jpg
 
The rakers look pretty flat on top (not much ramp)
Also, on chisel, you may need to take it back a little more to get a sharp corner. Looks like yours are still rounded off. (hard to tell from a pic).
I've had issues sharpening chisel because I don't like to waste chain but sometimes you just have to go another lap around until all the rounded off portion is removed...
 
It's something to do with the chains. I tried 4 or 5 loops the other day and all the same issue. Last night I pulled the one off my 036 and sharpened it, thinking maybe I was half asleep when I sharpened them or who knows and it still cuts the same.

Today I took that chain and put it on my 460 and same trouble. Unless that bar is goobered up too I don't think it's a bar issue.

If I push, it cuts ok. Depth gauges are at the correct height.


bent bar, chain links can be bent . chain maynot be as sharp as u think lol
 
The rakers look pretty flat on top (not much ramp)
Also, on chisel, you may need to take it back a little more to get a sharp corner. Looks like yours are still rounded off. (hard to tell from a pic).
I've had issues sharpening chisel because I don't like to waste chain but sometimes you just have to go another lap around until all the rounded off portion is removed...

That tooth isn't quite 100% pointy, but most on that loop are. It's got some run time, that's the loop I pulled off the 460 and I tried it on the 036 too.
 
The bottom of each link on the chain has a metal lip sticking out quite a bit, Does the rate of feed reduce once you have the full depth of the cutter
bar into the cut ?

I'm thinking that lip when X 2, ie when both top and bottom of cutter bar is in the cut may be your problem.
 
I don't want to pile on . . . . but . . .

- Full chisel chain relies on that sharp corner - that's what makes them cut faster when sharp, and why they dull faster (2nd photo).
- 3rd photo seems to show a 'glint' (light reflection) along the top plate cutting edge, which means that the cutter is not sharp.
- In the first photo, the depth gauge looks high for a cutter ground that far back, and it is not ground off parallel with the witness mark, which means that it is pivoting on the high corner. I round mine over to match the factory profile, but if you leave them flat you should follow that angle (on STIHL chains).

Philbert

The bottom of each link on the chain has a metal lip sticking out quite a bit, Does the rate of feed reduce once you have the full depth of the cutterbar into the cut ?
That's usually wear from running loose chain tension. It is a sign of excessive wear, but these should not be sticking out farther than the rivet heads, or interfering with the 'set' / kerf of the chain.
 
Is your chisel square? Are the gullet left? And a bar would do it been there done that.

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99a882189b49f2df6e993aea82483ca9.jpg


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