High compression can suck

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And it can break your recoil! I just got a Husky 55 with a Mahle 46cc OP cyl - too dayum much compression for start. Can't buy a new recoil every week. Had to tap a decomp valve in.
 
Had a 2100CD that the starter pawls didn't always catch. Luckily tge cord was pretty short or I'd likely be missing some teeth!
 
I have seen 240 on my 390 and that is with two "O" rings on the fitting. The piston hits the fitting with on "O"ring. It would probably have more on the gauge if I could pull it.
 
And it can break your recoil! I just got a Husky 55 with a Mahle 46cc OP cyl - too dayum much compression for start. Can't buy a new recoil every week. Had to tap a decomp valve in.

I have noticed hard pulling 55s and 51s. I have much bigger saws with more compression that are easier to pull over. Do you think it has anything to do with the configuration of the recoil?

I just repaired a 55 recoil with a broken axle post.
 
It might have something to do with the recoil but dunno. It doesn't appear much different than many others. What I've noticed in 5 H55 that I've rebuilt is...the 3 Farmtec topends are start-able w/o decomp engaged but it works your shoulder pretty bad. I use decomp with them cuz the jug comes threaded-ready for valve or plug. I figure - go valve and take it easier on the recoil. Hot start is no problem w/o decomp.
The 2 Mahle OP cyl/piston 55 probably hit 190-200 PSI and my shoulder would fall off if I hadn't tapped in a decomp valve. I even use decomp on a hot start.
 
Glad to hear I'm not the only one going through 50/55 starters. The ugly old 50's seem to hold up better.
 
Pulling over a 30-50 cc saw vs larger is no comparison with high comp.

The 49cc 026 I just built is pushing 225 not broken in. It's easy to start. Even Angelo C can start it.

Forgetting to push the decomp on my old 066, with 170 psi compression, will remove any calluses in short order.
 
These old saws also have single point advance on their coils. In the early days, the manufacturers could only produce coils that had one set ignition timing and this was set for the best performance whilst not being too difficult to start - somewhere around 23-25 deg advance.

The ripping of the starter cord from your fingers on older saws is generally the saw firing before TDC and kicking the piston backwards rather than forwards and over TDC, usually through a limp wristed attempt to start the saw!!

Fortunately the manufacturers now have coils with built in advance curves and decomp valves - the ignition advance is often close to zero on starting revs and rises to around 23-27 deg advance at idle to mid revs, falling back at higher revs to stop detonation.
 
Like most of my self inflicted, you can call it a brainfart. Kinda tough to visualize. Sliding a mower deck out sideways in tall grass, one foot was planted firmly and when I started to pull, my chest rested against my thigh. In my pocket, the ring on my keyring must've been turned just right so it was on edge. Yanking far all I was worth did the trick. I rolled over and grabbed my left chest and my son freaked, thinking I was having a heart attack.
 
I had a Craftsman 4.5--a rebadged Homelite 450--that frequently tried to dislocate my shoulder. The more knowledgeable folks here on AS said part of the problem was Homelite used too small of a recoil. It wound up with Mastermind/Randy, more specifically his SIL Jon. I'm sure they have no problems getting it started.
 

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