Buzzsaw

[agvg]

The blade

 

[agvg]

I also have a electric version of the same model buzzsaw.

 

[Jules083]

I just checked my local Craigslist, found this for $125. Kind of tempting. Comes with both saws and the belt.

http://youngstown.craigslist.org/grd/5314962163.html

 

[stihlfanboy]

I just checked my local Craigslist, found this for $125. Kind of tempting. Comes with both saws and the belt.

http://youngstown.craigslist.org/grd/5314962163.html

Just saw those on craigslist when I looked, want them but to far away and all the moneys going into the trucks. We use a 3 point buzz saw on an 8n, works well. The belt driven one for my allis sits on the deck of the historical society.

 

[alleyyooper]

I have a folding front mount buzz saw for my Massey Harris tractors that runs off the belt pulley. A second one I have is a 3 point mount and runs off the PTO . Never had a problem sharpening them and dad made me a magnetic device to measure the set so each tooth has the same set.
I don't use either much because I do the wood alone and I don't like the cut pile then move the saws so I can do another cut pile and stay safe.

Al

 

[toqua]

I have a folding front mount buzz saw for my Massey Harris tractors that runs off the belt pulley. A second one I have is a 3 point mount and runs off the PTO . Never had a problem sharpening them and dad made me a magnetic device to measure the set so each tooth has the same set.
I don't use either much because I do the wood alone and I don't like the cut pile then move the saws so I can do another cut pile and stay safe.

Al

How much do you set the teeth[the off set]I was going to make a jig for that but need to know how much of an off set i need, Thanks Tom

 

[blades]

30 thousandths would be max. avg is around 20. If this is a newish blade setting it will be easy, if it is a real old blade you will need to anneal the teeth before attempting to set or you will be cracking or snapping them off ( just the tip of the tooth is bent out not the whole thing) due to the metal becoming brittle with age and use. Another style of tooth is swagged not bent out. Basically the tip of the tooth is mashed back so the metal bulges out to the required clearance. There are tools to do this manually. There are also inserted tooth types as well as the carbide ones. Back in the day, around here, the inserted tooth types were the most popular as you didn't need another blade just a 2nd set of teeth. Which was considerably less expensive than a 2nd blade and if a tooth got broken easy to replace rather than regrinding or filing the whole blade. Less down time.

 

[alleyyooper]

When I lay my gauge on the blade I set the tooth 1/16 inch at the tip but start at the base. Those old saw blades are not all that brittle unless they were super heated.
Back in the day MID 50's when I was old enough I was put to work helping buzz wood no one had any thing other than a blade with teeth on it that could not be replaces you just used a round file and filed a bit deeper. Maybe saw mill blades had inserts but I have never seen a buzz rig with inserts and I bought a new blade for my PTO unit from Northern Hrydrlic 1977. After doing a internet search for buzz saw and cord wood saw blades I didn't run across one with inserts.

From the Vermont Woodman Buzz Saw site.
"The Buzz Saw uses a 29-7/8" Diameter Blade that is held
in Place by a large nut.
Replacement Buzz Saw Blades are available.
One of the Major Benefits of a Buzz Saw is that the Blade tends
to stay sharp a very long time.
We Know of Folks who sell Cordwood with their Buzz Saw and
have gone as long as 3 years between sharpening's.
This is amazing considering the hundreds and hundreds of cords of wood
they cut with their Buzz Saw.
The cleaner the wood the longer your Buzz Saw Blade will stay Sharp.
Most Folks go around 20 years before they replace their Buzz Saw Blade."


Al

 

[alleyyooper]

Ran across this and thought some may be interested.

"I have a steel plate table, and to make the set, i spot weld a piece of pipe on the table same size as arbor. Then spot weld a 1/8 washer on table where the tooth of the blade meets the solid part of blade. Then using a brass drift, strike every other tooth to set one side. Flip blade over and strike the other teeth to make set on other side.

When done for the season, coat all the teeth in old grease. I also cut a large bicycle tire, and cover the teeth to protect them and me from damage.

Fill oil cups with grease if you have cups, fresh grease in the bearings. Keeps water out."

Al

 

[blades]

Combination of work hardening, Bit of heat as the blade is passed through the wood and age ( steel like glass does age and become brittle) all together with exposure to the elements ( not everyone treats those buzz saws with respect when not in use) gang up. I get a few through the shop every year rusted, pitted, out of balance, out of round, and once in a while I even have to re-tension them because they no longer run true. Some of them I am thinking are just shy of being older than dirt a foot down.
Set - the blades them selves are apx .140- .145" thick if you add /.030 ( at apx a 5 deg angle) alternately on the teeth that is a total kerf of about .205" or slightly over 3/16. As you increase the kerf your horse power requirement is going to increase and if you go too far you can cause stress cracking in the gullets ( deep groove between teeth) once that starts blade is pretty much toast. By Federal law I am not supposed drill stop holes for cracks ( the associated prison time and fines are rather stiff). if i remember right about 1300 rpm is the correct operating speed

 

[toqua]

Thanks guys for all the info. I will use it and let you know how it turns out.