Timberframed
ArboristSite Guru
Thinking about an 87" bar and fitting two Oly Mac 999's on it. Pros and cons? Does it make that much a difference?
Twin powerheads double ended bars
- Thread starter Timberframed
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
kimosawboy
ArboristSite Operative
I have the same thing with a pair of Husky 2100cd and a 84" bar....Parts are getting a tad more difficult to get but not impossible by any means.. I went this way because it was cheaper to get two used saws rather than a two ''new'' 395... The two saw set up is vastly superior for the larger stuff of the Pacific NorthWest..
G Vavra
G Vavra
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
I have a double head bar for sale, it's shorter than your looking for though.
betterbuilt
I build stuff from milled slabs
I can't say anything from experience. It's been debated to death. A engineer friend I talked with said it would only be as good as the weakest saw. It didn't seem worth it to me. twice the gas for little gains.
betterbuilt
I build stuff from milled slabs
So is it worth it. Do you have any timed runs with one powerhead verses two?No.
Phil
I've just have the two power head mill. I milled a 32" width (average) by 10' long red oak in slightly over 4 minutes. I have planed to make a one power head mill but other projects and obligations keep getting in the way.
Phil
I use it just for milling.
Phil
Dave Boyt
ArboristSite Guru
I've done it with two powerheads... a Husqvarna 372 and a Stihl 066. It works fine, as long as there is good communication between the operators. Throttling up one mill too quickly can spin the clutch off the other saw. First time I tried it, I assumed that one saw needed to be upside down. Big mistake. You can always put a helper handle on the other end of the bar if you don't want to use a second saw.
MGoodwin
ArboristSite Member
I run a 5' bar with twin 066's. Used it on a 4' maple. Loved it. There was some other recent thread bludgeoning this topic to death and I think BobL nailed it: you want the torque/HP bands to overlap. Its not about individual RPMs or power so much as in order to realize the full potential of running two saws you want them running in the same sweet spot. I think a big help has been connecting the throttles to a single lever. I used bicycle brake lines and a modified brake lever. Crude, but cost and functionally effective. I think to up power/cutting capacity running a double ended bar was more cost effective than getting a 088 (or similar). 
Just a word of caution about using a hard/metal contact direct onto a CS trigger for a remote throttle like this.
Over time the vibe will wear the plastic trigger away, and although they are relatively cheap to replace, this can be avoided by using a softer material between the two.
I tried a variety of materials, spongy foam was too soft and wore aware too quickly and hard rubber from a bike brake pad was too hard and wore the trigger.
The best thing I found was a piece of hydraulic hose but I suspect a piece of garden hose would also be about the right hardness.
Over time the vibe will wear the plastic trigger away, and although they are relatively cheap to replace, this can be avoided by using a softer material between the two.
I tried a variety of materials, spongy foam was too soft and wore aware too quickly and hard rubber from a bike brake pad was too hard and wore the trigger.
The best thing I found was a piece of hydraulic hose but I suspect a piece of garden hose would also be about the right hardness.
Liquid tape spread on the metal part will help cushon the throttle to prevent wear. Build up several layers until you get the thickness you want.
No the mufflers face each other. Point two saws at each other in that form and see how the pulling side of one saw is the "pushing side of the other.One has to be upside down ?
