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.....Ummm...IIII'l take three please.

Cool footage, fun to watch.
you got me hands down on the climbing and rigging. BUT
Your are going to eventually want to learn to flat cut first when it comes to falling. Its not a proper demonstration of site lines. #2Its easy to level for your undercut which makes it all work or not.

1Ft tree not so bad but the bigger the tree the less room for error.
 
Nice work. Is there a story behind the tarp laid out on the roof?

1. Tree shed a limb, poking hole in roof, customers decide to remove tree.
2. Roof repair in progress, customers decide to remove tree before new roof installed.
3. Customers decide to remove tree, arborist plans removal and strategically places tarp.
4. Something completely different I haven't considered.

Just curious.
 
Nice work. Is there a story behind the tarp laid out on the roof?

1. Tree shed a limb, poking hole in roof, customers decide to remove tree.
2. Roof repair in progress, customers decide to remove tree before new roof installed.
3. Customers decide to remove tree, arborist plans removal and strategically places tarp.
4. Something completely different I haven't considered.

Just curious.

Actually, I'm not really sure...
The customer was fixing the root, and I guess the tarpaulin is just to protect the roof while the work is in progress.
The tree had to be removed because the roots was beginning to lift the floor inside the cabin...
Wonder why they built the cabin where they did, the tree must have been there long before.


2015-10-26 15.26.18.jpg
2015-10-26 15.28.15.jpg
 
.....Ummm...IIII'l take three please.

Cool footage, fun to watch.
you got me hands down on the climbing and rigging. BUT
Your are going to eventually want to learn to flat cut first when it comes to falling. Its not a proper demonstration of site lines. #2Its easy to level for your undercut which makes it all work or not.

1Ft tree not so bad but the bigger the tree the less room for error.
What isn't a proper demonstration of sight lines? Are you talking about humbolt notches? Or just purely making your flush cut first, regardless of the notch being used?
 
Regardless of falling cuts even if its a pie ( birds mouth) I still do a horizontal cut then 45° up (Humboldt) themselves 45° down to complete the birds mouth
If you ever fall retention (close canopy) then you will find using the saws sight line on the flat is far superior. hence: "proper use". Often in production falling we don't nessassarily have to be completely accurate so our initial aim may be altered a few degrees either way by just marrying up our cuts providing we are close.
The other majer concern which is always in effect and that is; 'you' can't possibly prevent 'your' undercut from sloping on a continuous basis as you can
with the flat cut first. You can correct it maybe, but prevention is better.
 
Regardless of falling cuts even if its a pie ( birds mouth) I still do a horizontal cut then 45° up (Humboldt) themselves 45° down to complete the birds mouth
If you ever fall retention (close canopy) then you will find using the saws sight line on the flat is far superior. hence: "proper use". Often in production falling we don't nessassarily have to be completely accurate so our initial aim may be altered a few degrees either way by just marrying up our cuts providing we are close.
The other majer concern which is always in effect and that is; 'you' can't possibly prevent 'your' undercut from sloping on a continuous basis as you can
with the flat cut first. You can correct it maybe, but prevention is better.
So what you're saying is, always make your flush cut first, using your feeling marks as direction. Then cut your angle afterwards. Regardless of a Humboldt/conventional.
Okay. Same page.
That's the way I was taught, and have always done it. I never knew it to be more accurate. Interesting.
 
Regardless of falling cuts even if its a pie ( birds mouth) I still do a horizontal cut then 45° up (Humboldt) themselves 45° down to complete the birds mouth
If you ever fall retention (close canopy) then you will find using the saws sight line on the flat is far superior. hence: "proper use". Often in production falling we don't nessassarily have to be completely accurate so our initial aim may be altered a few degrees either way by just marrying up our cuts providing we are close.
The other majer concern which is always in effect and that is; 'you' can't possibly prevent 'your' undercut from sloping on a continuous basis as you can
with the flat cut first. You can correct it maybe, but prevention is better.

I was taught to do the diagonal cut first, and have always done it that way. I can understand though, that it is more accurate to do the flat cut first, as it's easier to alter your aim. That said, I guess it's easier to match up the two cuts when making the diagonal first as you can look down the diagonal cut when doing the flat cut.
Anyways, I will do the flat cut first next time I have the opportunity.
 
There is almost no chance on your cuts not matching up when you cut the flush first. When removing the saw from the flush cut, pivot the bar off the corner, and angle. Spits a perfect notch every time.
 
Hmm, that sounds easy!
Thanks for the video as well.
Anytime. Not that what you were doing is in any way wrong. Nor do I believe you need to learn it my way. Just thought you might enjoy the video.
Great job, by the way. I liked the mixed rigging.:yes:
 

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