Why 394 won't start when hot

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cat10ken

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I bought a used 394 last year, built in 1999, ser.# 9050035. I was milling a 26"x13' ash log. I made the first cut in about 15 minutes (is this good or bad?), set the saw down and refueled. Adjusted the Alaskan for a 2" cut and the saw would not start. This has happened before when bucking firewood logs and I have to wait over an hour for it to cool enough to restart. When I finally got it going again, I got within 1" of finishing the second slab when I ran out of fuel (again about 15 minutes). After letting it cool for 1 1/2 hours it just would not start in the slabbing position, I had to work it all the way back to the other end of the log, set it upright to start it then cut the remaining inch from the other end. It took me three days to finish this log, I got 20-2x6x13' but it was frustrating. Also the on/off switch doesn't work either. So what do I need to fix this thing?
 
I had a similar problem with my 390 , turned out to be a faulty spark plug . Fingers crossed it's nothing serious .
 
Blow the saw out real good, sounds like your overheating to me. Also be sure to let the saw cool down after the cut when you can.
 
This is a common problem with the 394 based on the number of discussions that are found here on AS. Search 394 hot start and start reading. Good luck
 
How bout you set the fast idle setting, ie the warm start position.

Choke on then off (setting the fast idle position) then pull on the pull cord. You can do it without even starting the saw, go try it, pull out on the choke lever then push it right back in, then engage the throttle, you will hear a click, that was your fast idle carb butterfly position.

Across all brand that is perhaps the most misunderstood starting position yet is clearly defined by every manufacturer.
 
I just tried it. choke on, choke off, pull trigger, click. It goes through all the motions just fine but I didn't try to start it now being as it is cooled off it will start. Is this sequence supposed to make it start when hot?
 
Classic bad coil symptoms. With the saw in the no start warm condition, put a squirt of carb cleaner in the carb with air filter off, if it starts for 1 second it is not the coil if it dont I would say it is. Also look at the color and strength of the spark in both situations cold and hot .
 
Are the $8 Chinese coils worth buying or do I need the $80 OEM?
Thanks.
Well we still are not positive on what it is. But for 8 bucks you could find out i guess. Do what I suggested and take it from there . I have no experience with the cheap coils but I will bet it is hit and miss. Try the cheap one if it starts you have the troubleshooting accomplished, then buy a better coil if it has any glitches.
 
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