I asked this question in my other post but I guess it's gotten lost.. Lol.. Can someone tell me where the bypass is in my control valve? I looked up the exploded view of it on the Prince website... All 21 pages ... And I never did see the word bypass. Maybe they call it something else.. Here is the picture of my control valve .. Thanks
Bypass in the control valve??
- Thread starter blkcloud
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If your referring to the relief, its right there under the white sticker.
I don't know if it's the relief or not.. After my splitter runs a while it won't build more than a 1000 psi.. One guy said it was probably my bypass.. I put my pressure gauge on my pump and it went to 3500 psi and killed the motor.. So I'm pretty sure the pump is ok... Is a relief and a bypass the same thing?
WoodTick007
Addicted to ArboristSite
What type and kind of wood are you splitting? My splitters does not produce much more than 500-800psi before the wood splits. If the guage does go above 1000 psi it is only for a few brief seconds and it drops back down to the 500-800 range.
If your engine meets or exceeds the pump manufactures requirements and is in good working condition and still stalling you should back off the relief valve. Your engine should not stall during the splitting operation.
If your engine meets or exceeds the pump manufactures requirements and is in good working condition and still stalling you should back off the relief valve. Your engine should not stall during the splitting operation.
The relief valve is the only thing I would consider a "bypass" in a control valve. The relief contains a spring loaded check that can open under pressure to allow excess pressure to "bypass" and return to tank. You adjust the pressure by adjusting the tension that is applied to the spring. Several things could be the cause of a loss of pressure, faulty relief valve being only one of them. The Control valve itself could have a crack internally or just be worn and expands as the metal heats up and allows oil to leak pass the spools. The oil might be used to the point it thins out as it gets hot. The pump might be worn or damaged so that its bypassing internally.
The control valve has a auto detent which has quit working also. Now when the ram comes all the way back , instead of the handle popping forward into the "neutral" position.. It lugs the motor until I manually pull it to the neutral position
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Adjust it. It's just spring pressure.
My old Didier splitter was doing the same thing years back, the hotter the oil, the less it would split. Same on the return detent too. The fix for me was a new pump, runs like new now. The pump was 30 years old, hundreds of cords, no oil filter, and about a 5 quart oil tank. Just wore out.
I did.. Went in 4 full revolutions and no change.. Backed it off to where I started and went another round and nothing, so I put it back to where I started at..
WoodTick007
Addicted to ArboristSite
Did you guage lower at all after you backed the threaded set screw out 4 turns?
Screwing it in would make the detent worse as you are increaseing the pressure needed to kick it back out to neutral. One turn out might not of been enough, keep backing the screw out until the lever wont stay engaged and then start screwing it back in until it kicks out when you want it to.
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