Nik's Poulan Thread

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The oiler has a couple of routes to pass air as well. Check the cover and body gasket when spraying.

Edit: I neglected fashioning up new cover plate and case gaskets on my first run through with these oil pumps. A wise old Fossil convinced me otherwise.
 
The oiler has a couple of routes to pass air as well. Check the cover and body gasket when spraying.

Edit: I neglected fashioning up new cover plate and case gaskets on my first run through with these oil pumps. A wise old Fossil convinced me otherwise.

Will do...thanks.....I'm a blank slate on these....every bit of info helps!!
 
The HDB's are easy to kit. Just make sure when you remove the metering plate to replace the gasket under it you note which gasket it is. The kits come with two which are different.
Compression is generally low on those saws and should read between 125 and could be as high as 140 but are usually in the 135 range. They are a very dependable saw and cut quite fast.


Since it has an impulse oiler, there is a hole into the case behind the oiler. It doesn't hurt to plug that off if you can't find any obvious air leaks. I've had ones that hold well without blocking that hole off and ones that didn't.

If the SKF 6119 seal is not available, a National (Timken) 253747 is the same. Both sides use the same seal. I like the SKF 6119's as they are a little easier to get in. The seal case on the National seals run a few thou larger in diameter.

There is a step on the crank on the PTO side. I use a piece of 1/2" copper pipe to help get the seal over the lip. Tape or other stuff works as well.

Service manual here. Good manual and fairly short.

https://app.box.com/s/326l10jokbvaqxudjbr0

HDB explosion here.

http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product2.asp?Series=HDB&partnum=HDB-8-1
 
The HDB's are easy to kit. Just make sure when you remove the metering plate to replace the gasket under it you note which gasket it is. The kits come with two which are different.
Compression is generally low on those saws and should read between 125 and could be as high as 140 but are usually in the 135 range. They are a very dependable saw and cut quite fast.


Since it has an impulse oiler, there is a hole into the case behind the oiler. It doesn't hurt to plug that off if you can't find any obvious air leaks. I've had ones that hold well without blocking that hole off and ones that didn't.

If the SKF 6119 seal is not available, a National (Timken) 253747 is the same. Both sides use the same seal. I like the SKF 6119's as they are a little easier to get in. The seal case on the National seals run a few thou larger in diameter.

There is a step on the crank on the PTO side. I use a piece of 1/2" copper pipe to help get the seal over the lip. Tape or other stuff works as well.

Service manual here. Good manual and fairly short.

https://app.box.com/s/326l10jokbvaqxudjbr0

HDB explosion here.

http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product2.asp?Series=HDB&partnum=HDB-8-1

Thanks Tim......seal numbers/brands are what I needed......Cory sent the manual pdf last night.....also very helpful to a newbe... Looks to be a pretty solid built saw....but nobody wanted to work on it around here.....just put seals, lines and carb kit in an 026 for the same guy...another saw I have little experience with.....kinda the "old cantdog new tricks" thing.....I really appreciate all the quick info and help....reminds me why I came to AS in the first place....
 
Got a craftsman 2.0 from the 90s what poulan is it? Needs a carb kit for sure.
Was only 30 bucks. It kinda run to start with meaning kinda like a 3legged dog. Just barely took it apart cleaned everything. Now it won't crank. What problems dies this saw commonly have other than the obvious carb.
 
Got a craftsman 2.0 from the 90s what poulan is it? Needs a carb kit for sure.
Was only 30 bucks. It kinda run to start with meaning kinda like a 3legged dog. Just barely took it apart cleaned everything. Now it won't crank. What problems dies this saw commonly have other than the obvious carb.
?
 
Got a craftsman 2.0 from the 90s what poulan is it? Needs a carb kit for sure.
Was only 30 bucks. It kinda run to start with meaning kinda like a 3legged dog. Just barely took it apart cleaned everything. Now it won't crank. What problems dies this saw commonly have other than the obvious carb.

It's Poulan Micro. I've heard some have ad the coils go out. The oiler check valves die sometimes but can be rebuilt easily as they are getting tough to find.
 
Hello all I have a craftsman 2.0 that hasn't been run in 13 years. Replaced fuel filter and line and retuned for 40:1 saw runs great. Now on to my question the lines are in pieces in the bar oil tank will I need to split the case to replace them.View attachment 501502

No you don't. They are easy to replace. Use a piece of 3/16 OD Tygon or rubber oil line. Pull the oil filter cover and guts, at the lower right side near the front of (two screws) of the case. One end of the oil line attaches to the filter. Fish a piece of wire down through the oil outlet for the bar and out the filter hole. Cut a taper on the end of the oil line, attach the wire and pull the line out through the bar oil hole. Cut it flush with the case and attach the other end to the oil filter and bolt it back up.

I can't remember the correct length of line but maybe around 3"? Just fish it through and then cut the length that fits easily on the filter.

I hope I explained that OK.
 
Thanks Tim......seal numbers/brands are what I needed......Cory sent the manual pdf last night.....also very helpful to a newbe... Looks to be a pretty solid built saw....but nobody wanted to work on it around here.....just put seals, lines and carb kit in an 026 for the same guy...another saw I have little experience with.....kinda the "old cantdog new tricks" thing.....I really appreciate all the quick info and help....reminds me why I came to AS in the first place....

They are very easy saws to work on and great dependable runners. There are thousands of that series still running and cutting lots of firewood every year.

I would say they cut just a bit slower than a 630.

Good to see you over here Robin.
 
They are very easy saws to work on and great dependable runners. There are thousands of that series still running and cutting lots of firewood every year.

I would say they cut just a bit slower than a 630.

Good to see you over here Robin.
Thanks guys. That method is similar to the use of hevey guage fishing line. I use it often to do fuel lines hope to have it running soon.
 
Ppl were saying 60cc won't big enough for milling. I think 580cc will do the trick. Least that's what I'm gonna use.
 
It is pretty dead in here lately. What are we working on lately? Anything on the bench?

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
 
It is pretty dead in here lately. What are we working on lately? Anything on the bench?

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Well I got that craftsman 2.0 and 2.1 I got on the cheap.2.0 needs a carb kit orone of the good ones from the junk pile and I'm starting to get all my stuff together to build my mill.
 
Well I got that craftsman 2.0 and 2.1 I got on the cheap.2.0 needs a carb kit orone of the good ones from the junk pile and I'm starting to get all my stuff together to build my mill.
It's gonna be a rail mill with a 18 horse riding mower engine, gonna do a belt drive with a small pulley on a shaft down to a 8 toothdrive sprocket.
 
Picked this up for $55 shipped. It runs
12567f9557fd72cf74201162f2a7aacb.jpg


Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
 
It is pretty dead in here lately. What are we working on lately? Anything on the bench?

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

I agree, pretty quiet lately. For me at least I have't had any time for saws recently. Between my 9-5 job, my detailing side business and house projects to finish our basement, I can hardly keep up! Going up to the river for at least a day though this coming weekend so I hope to take a couple saws to at least make a few cuts with.
 
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