Asplundh whisper chipper JEY

[Diy mechanic mike]

I can get it to turn over by taking a wire and connecting bat/pos to starter directly and it turns but wire get's hottttttt but the key will not crank only clicks and solenoids buzzes and the battery is good I jus bought it 2 months ago for my dump truck and it starts that up np but chipper nah

 

[jefflovstrom]

You sure live up to your name "Diy mechanic"
Jeff,,
Maybe replace the starter and solenoid?

 

[BC WetCoast]

When you turn the key on can you get the starter to spin by shorting between the terminals?

Are you getting power to both sides of the ignition switch (use an volt meter)?

Are your relays and fuses good?

The power cable from the battery to the starter, does it have good connections (no green crusties in the connections)? Do you have a good ground connection?

If you do some you tube searches for no crank no start, you will get some good advice from several of the mechanic channels. Some of them can get a little sophisticated with scopes and stuff, but some of the videos give good basic advice. The channels I like are South Main Auto, Jim the Car Guy, Motoyam82, Scanner Danner, Briansmobile1 and Schrodingers Box. Watching these videos has increased my mechanic knowledge about 100 fold.

 

[Diy mechanic mike]

When key is turned on yes I can jump the solenoid and get it to spin but my wires ground and positive get really hot when I do it after 10 or so cranks the wires begin to melt idk if that is a problem but it does happen..... and I have replaced keyswitch and the universal solenoid and still buzzin and clicks is all I get like the battery is dead but it obviously is not cuz I can put it back in dump truck.and fire her right up and have done that every day I work on chipper so it has fresh charge and I'm starting to loose it cuz idk what is wrong hell it started right up before I took pto off and changed clutch and now I got new clutch and pto parts and freshly sharpend blades and she don't wanna fire so she can blow my mind by how good it shreds with fresh blades

 

[BC WetCoast]

Again, check your connections and check your grounds. It sounds like a voltage drop somewhere in the system. Check the voltage at the starter. I believe it should be close to battery level.
Check your starter relay.

 

[Diy mechanic mike]

Ok so I'm a jack*** I figured it out I hooked my ignition switch power supply to the starter output power supply instead of positive wire to input on solenoid so that's why my key wouldn't do nothing it didn't have power to do anything lol took me a week to figure that out such a simple mistake almost drove me bonkers and once I noticed it I hooked it up right and turned key and got scared cuz she started up and and didn't expect it too lol

 

[hseII]

Ok so I'm a jack*** I figured it out I hooked my ignition switch power supply to the starter output power supply instead of positive wire to input on solenoid so that's why my key wouldn't do nothing it didn't have power to do anything lol took me a week to figure that out such a simple mistake almost drove me bonkers and once I noticed it I hooked it up right and turned key and got scared cuz she started up and and didn't expect it too lol

"Before" Pictures before any work starts.

 

[Diy mechanic mike]

What u mean take pic's before and after work

 

[Diy mechanic mike]

So havnt had any issues with the chipper since last post, til this summer. starter went out on me and I got it replaced and worked good for a month. and yesterday I was chipping and shut it off and went to start back up and the starter wouldn't stop turning and went for like a whole minute straight before I could take battery terminal off to stop the power. The key ignition was basically useless turning off and on didnt do anything so I quickly disconnected battery. Any thoughts or places to start here on a cause for this I'm just confused as to why it worked fine for so long then boom shitcanned like this???? Any help is greatly appreciated...

 

[JeffGu]

Begin with the starter relay. The ignition switch itself can't handle the current of a starter motor, so there will always be a relay that actuates the starter motor. It can be included on the starter, but that's not common. The contacts in the relay are usually silver-plated copper, or plain copper. If the starter current is high, and the motor is turned for an excessively long time, it can literally weld the relay contacts together. This will give you the problem you're having, and is the most likely culprit.

Some starter motors have a solenoid that engages the pinion gear with the flywheel gear, and has a set of internal contacts that serve the function of a starter relay. This is a more expensive repair. If the wires from the ignition switch go straight to some terminals on the starter motor, and not to a relay, then this is the type that you have. The wires will usually be 10 ga. because the solenoid coil is fairly high current compared to a relay.

If the relay is good, the next most likely suspect would be the ignition switch itself.

 

[Diy mechanic mike]

Well I do know I have the starter solenoid between ignition switch and starter motor... but my concern here is that I have replaced the starter motor, ignition switch(twice now), and starter solenoid (3 times) due to thought of it being bad which each time things were fine for a while then shitcanned all of sudden. Are the universal ignition switches and starter solenoids just China cheap or do I have a wire crossed somewhere causing issues??? I been debating wiring the chipper like my tractor ignition is rigged , (toggle switch for key on position, then push button switch for starter motor power supply) would this be a better set up then the china universal ignition switch??

 

[blades]

Get a heavy duty relay for the starter ( $50 apx) those $13 ones don't last. Contacts either pit to where they are useless or weld themselves together. Pitting is the start then the current draw goes way up and fries wires and contacts- typical problem with snow removal equipment. Starters / hydraulic pump motors and winches all share the a High current draw need relay contacts that can handle some 200+ amps. if any of your wiring is becoming corroded replace it also clean and grease ( dialectic) all connections pay particular attention to the ground wires. Power leads to starter should be 4ga or better stranded - solder connectors on cable ends - Those crimp on ones always cause problems down the road, the most common problem i see is from those causing the terminals to be burned off due to the poor connection- hence high current draw.

 

[Diy mechanic mike]

Anyone have this same model with issues like this that have found a way to get the kinks out? I don't like that it's been working for a while then out of nowhere boom nothing, or worse case like this time constant power to starter. I think I'm gonna rig the push button/toggle up and see how that works instead of buying another new china ignition switch.

 

[Diy mechanic mike]

So your saying its more likely to be the solenoid that's the issue? It seemed to be the key but I guess if it welds up in there the key turning could have been the initial spark for the weld up(causing the constant power to starter and the key not doing anything.

 

[Diy mechanic mike]

Do you have a part number for a heavy duty starter relay/solenoid cuz you are spot on on the 13 dollar ones which I've been replacing Haha.

 

[Diy mechanic mike]

So I did some research I believe the relay/solenoid I have and been purchasing is the 12v 750/80a rated one and the other one that I found is 12v 600/200a which I'm guessing is the one I should get to cure my issue??? Let me know if these specs are ok. Thanks mike

 

[blades]

Yes on the second listed relay. I am at my shop trying to get some customer jobs done. If you follow the protocols I laid out you should be ok. The ignition switch is only sending power to the relay coil. 12v at less than amp in most cases. Some of the relays ground through their casing so make sure that the mounting area is free of rust and again grease to keep corrosion away.

 

[blades]

i just looked to see if i had a relay around it is made by Trombetta # 114-1211-020-02 12v/ cont. it is a bout 2.5" in dia. and weighs about 3 pounds specked for a minimum #6 cable for the main power lines 200 amp cont/ 600 amp in rush. I seldom have to replace these

 

[Diy mechanic mike]

Ok so the (continuous 200a) is better then (200a intermittently)right? Cause I found both type online obviously the continuous is more expensive but if that's gonna last without problems then I'll fork out 80bucks cause thats what I found the trombetta for online....

 

[blades]

Might want to dig around some more on that price.