McCulloch Chain Saws

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Remove carb from saw, dis amble carb. Watch how it came apart. Buy you some carb cleaner spray. Spray down outside of carb. Remove both high and low adjusters. Use red straw that comes with carb cleaner to spray threw both high and low adjuster holes. Spray threw every passage you can see in carb by putting the straw up against each passage and spraying threw each. If you have compressed air blow dry the carb and re assemble carb in reverse order you took it apart using new parts from kit. re-install high and low adjusters. Seat them being careful and just take them to where you just feel them bottom out, then open them 1 to 1-1/4 turn out and re install carb. The kit will come with two gaskets, two diaphragms, a needle, a spring and a arm. when re assembling the needle, arm and spring use a straight edge and lay across the two little blocks on each side of the metering arm and bend the arm to where the arm just touches the straight edge that you have across each block. This is for a SDC carb. I think the HDA, HDB and HDC carbs you lay the straight edge across the body of the carb. If you get on www.walbro.com website it will show you how to set the metering arm for each type of carb.
http://www.walbro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/HDAseries.pdf
http://www.walbro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/HDCseries.pdf
http://www.walbro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/SDCseries.pdf

These service guides will help you. Brian
 
Cool! Lots of nice saws. Having used both, could you comment on the differences between the 10-10S and the PM800?

Rob
 
No comparison, the PM800 is 82 cc with a very good anti-vibe system and muffler; the 10-10S is 57 cc with a rigid mount and one baffle in the muffler. The 800 is much more powerful and has a lot less vibration than the 10-10S plus it makes a lot less noise. I do use a 10-10S from time to time but I would rather use my PM55 (basically the same saw with a short clutch cover) as it has a new cylinder and piston and feels a lot stronger than the 10-10S. The long clutch cover on the 10-10S just make them look and feel bigger and bulkier with you are running them.

Mark
 
I'm renovating the PM700 I purchased recently. Looks pretty decent but didn't run by itself. When I dropped the carb from my 10-10S on it then it ran OK.

So, I just rebuilt the carb today. That seemed to go smoothly. In addition to that I took off the gas tank cover so I could clean out 35+ years of gunk from the tank. This was, perhaps, a mistake. I now have a gas leak from the tank into the airbox once everything is reassembled. I made myself a new gasket for the fuel tank and another for the airbox. Made the fuel tank top gasket out of cork gasket material. Used rubber gasket material for the airbox. But the fuel pours into the airbox faster than even now. Do I just suck it up and buy the 'right' gasket for $10 (correction: $20) or is there something else I can do to fix this easier?

Thanks,
Rob
 
I use a large O ring to seal the tank. This work like a charm. I have done 3 of my saws this way and none of the three leak. Going to rebuild my PM55 and when I get done it will have a rubber O ring between the gas tank half. Not had one to leak yet. You can also buy flat O ring material that I bet would work even better.
http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#2542t21/=z82pq8
 
Great ideas. Thanks Brian!

Do you have any idea what length and diameter of O-ring you buy that fits the channel? Or do you just buy one extra long and cut it to length?

Rob
 
I bought some square profile o-ring stock from McMaster-Carr, I believe it was 3/32" square. Works well but you have to be careful to cut the ends perfectly square; I used some Threebond 1184 (or maybe 1194?) on the ends to insure a good seal. It took a couple of attempts before I managed to get it sealed tight, but I would be hard pressed to remember which saw it is in now...

When they introduced the 6-10/7-10, CP, SP, and Pro Mac models with the longer tank top that also serves as the mounting surface for the air filter cover McCulloch used some type of putty material for the seal around the air box early on and later went to a type of double sided foam tape. All of the earlier models had a short tank top that only served as the fuel tank and the air filter cover and air filter made the seal around the air box. They all used the same cork gasket. I know the CP and SP models have sealed tanks that are not intended for disassembly but all of the others seem to have the take apart fuel tank with gasket.

Mark
 

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Mark is right, On my 10-10's I use 3/32 round or flat. I have 3 of them with round O rings and they have never leaked a drop. I did not think they would hold but so far they have. I needed them in a hurry for the weekend kind of thing and that has been like 3 months ago. I got the largest o ring I had in stock which was too long and cut it down. I used crazy glue to put them together thinking well this is just for the weekend and the fuel will eat the crazy glue up before the weekend was up but that has been 3 months ago and still no leaks. Like Mark said you need to make a straight cut on both ends before putting them together and make sure they are straight when put together. I was looking on McMaster-Car site and they sale crazy glue to put them together.
 
Follow-up on my PM700 'rebuild' progress:

I looked at several auto parts stores and a tractor supply store near me and nobody carries large O-rings or any bulk square or round gasket material. I'll have to order some. The cork one I cut myself leaked like crazy, probably due to being too thin compared to the OEM gasket I removed. The closest thing I had handy was a length of rubber material used to hold screen material in the frame (for a window screen). That actually fit perfectly in the gas tank cover gasket channel. I still had a little seepage out the edges after using this, and I don't know whether it will hold up to fuel exposure, so I'll order some real gasket stuff on-line.

I also realized I made a mistake when assembling the carb. I didn't hook the diaphram nub to the metering lever's forked end. I took the carb back apart and fixed that. Got everything back together and the saw fired up right away. Two pulls with the switch off and then turned the switch on and it fired immediately! Ran pretty good, but I didn't actually cut anything yet. 100% improvement for not running at all initially. :) Today I'm going to follow the procedures I've found online to adjust the carb idle, high, and low circuits. Hopefully I can test out the 28" bar soon!

Now that I know what I'm doing with the carb rebuild I'm going to do the same process and put a kit in my 10-10S. This saw ran great until just recently when it has started failing to stay running at high throttle. The new coil didn't fix that so hopefully it is a carb problem.

Appreciating all the guidance I've gotten here so far!

Rob
 

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