Larger climbing saw?

[david1332]

Alright so I'm looking for input on the next size saw you guys bring up for chunking down the spar and cutting larger wood after your climbing saw becomes too slow or the bar isn't big enough?
I currently go from a 201tc to an echo cs-400 but that's only a 5cc increase and isn't enough to make it much quicker.



What do you guys use?

 

[no tree to big]

201 w/16" then a 261 w/ 20" then a 460 w/24" then a 660 w/32" the 880 doesn't often make it up to the climber

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[treesmith]

200t then 346/261/44/66

88 preferably only on the ground

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[beastmaster]

I like my 372 husky with a 28 in. bar. I use it for limbing conifers. I can reach up and have 4 ft. of tree limbed befor i move up, then i don't need to pull up a saw a 100ft. to chunk out the tree. (Unless im out of gas). It starts getting interesting when the 066 or 088 has to be sent up.

 

[benjo75]

After the top handle I go to 261 with 20" bar then 066 with 20" then 066 with 36".
I dread the days with the 36". Only use the 36" every couple of months but does save a lot of time by not having to cut from both sides. It's just a pain starting standing on a spar or in the bucket.

 

[beastmaster]

Thats why i like my own personal saw. It starts first pull 90% of the time. A hard to start big saw in the tree is a curse.

 

[TreeswingerPerth]

200T then the 361 / 560 , depending on the size 660 / 395 after that .

 

[Griff93]

I usually use a 562xp with a 24" bar. It's lighter than my 372 or 395 but will still pull a good sharp chain on a 24" bar. I try to avoid using my 395 in a tree but do it occasionally. Every time I do it I think about buying some suspender for my harness.

 

[JeffGu]

MS-150TC-E (12" bar) or CS-271T (12" bar) --> MS-201T (14" bar) --> MS-261C-MQ (20" bar) and every once in awhile I have to haul up ported Dolmar 7910 (24" or 32" bar). I'm never happy about those rare times, though. Luckily, the 261 saws are the biggest thing I have to take up into the trees about 95% of the time. They're easy to start, light with a slim profile, and plenty of power.

 

[david1332]

MS-150TC-E (12" bar) or CS-271T (12" bar) --> MS-201T (14" bar) --> MS-261C-MQ (20" bar) and every once in awhile I have to haul up ported Dolmar 7910 (24" or 32" bar). I'm never happy about those rare times, though. Luckily, the 261 saws are the biggest thing I have to take up into the trees about 95% of the time. They're easy to start, light with a slim profile, and plenty of power.

I'm leaning towards getting an 026 or a 260 just to make my lifer easier with the extra cc's. How do you feel about the older 026's and how much should one go for?

 

[treesmith]

For a stock saw I can't recommend a 346xp or 357xp enough, a ported 261c is a brilliant alternative but pricey. We cut hardwood in Oz so my 346 wears .325 16", MasterMind 261c wears 18" 3/8, MM 044 wears 20".

Most stock 90cc I've seen here are 25", occasionally a 20"/30". We've taken down some fat assed trees with a 25" 660

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[BC WetCoast]

I like my 372 husky with a 28 in. bar. I use it for limbing conifers. I can reach up and have 4 ft. of tree limbed befor i move up, then i don't need to pull up a saw a 100ft. to chunk out the tree. (Unless im out of gas). It starts getting interesting when the 066 or 088 has to be sent up.

Put a line through a micropulley on your saddle and have your groundie pull it up.

 

[beastmaster]

Put a line through a micropulley on your saddle and have your groundie pull it up.

I love a good groundy, with that being said i get tired of trying to explain, coordinate, hold their attention, etc of most ground people. Its often is easier to just pull that saw up. I think of it as working out.
I have forearms like Popeye.

 

[benjo75]

A new 261 around here is about $700. I picked up one at a pawn shop a few months ago. Which I never do. All it needed was a new fuel line. Been sitting with ethanol gas for too long. Still had the stupid anti kickback chain that most homeowners run. $300 on sticker. They had a sale for 1/3 off everything in store. So for $200, new fuel line and new chain it's been a great little saw. I've ran it hard for several months. I never buy saws in pawn shops. Mainly because they usually only have Ranchers or farm boss of poulans. Probably just got lucky this time.

 

[pro94lt]

I guess I'm a saw maniac. I'll go from a ms150t to a 200t/t540xp to a ms241/ps421 to a 346xp/550xp to a 562xp to a 372. A 372 is about all I want with a 28" bar. If in the bucket I'll even take up the 395xp and 42" but you'll have 10 gal of sawdust in the bucket. I used to only use a 360t then go to a 346 or 288xp. At the end of the day I'm much happier using the smallest saw I need even if it means taking the time to send them up...

 

[JeffGu]

How do you feel about the older...

I don't have that sentimentalism that most of these folks have for older saws, so I can't be of any help on that. I do have a 200T with low hours, but it doesn't perform any better than the 201T saws I have... I just keep it so I can tell my buddies that it's not for sale and that I'm going to paint it pink and write "Poulan" on the side of it.

 

[greengreer]

I like the older 26's alot. Not as much power as a 346 but ultra reliable and decently torquey. For me though they weren't enought of a step up in power from a 200t. I would go to a 036 or 46. I would love to try out the new 261cm. Been digging the stihl computer carb models lately and the 261 looks good on paper
If you do go for an 026 look for a pro model, you're gonna want the adjustable oiler for anything more than a 16" bar.

 

[JeffGu]

...and the 261 looks good on paper...

It looks even better when it's on the job. Beautifully easy to start, runs great in any weather and stays running great. Nimble, with good power. You might seriously consider the extra coin for the MS-261C-MQ model, with the Quick Stop brake that's triggered when you release pressure form the throttle release lever (top side of handle). Stops the blade in less than a second. Worth every penny, especially on a saw you'll use in a tree or bucket.

 

[stihl076]

my saw progression is stihl 200 16" ms460 28" or 372 28" then 660 36" or 395 .

 

[crotchclimber]

I like the older saws for climbing since they are smaller and lighter for their power. For a big step up from a top handle I'd grab my 361 with a 20" or 25" bar. My 024AVS (almost identical to a 026) is good for wood up to 16" and light for climbing but mostly I use it for limbing and light ground work. I'd stay away from the M-tronic saws if you can. All those saws (261C, 362C, 661CM, 201TC) I've used start having issues like having to start throttled when hot and randomly dying when running after about 6 months. Total pain when climbing.