Friction Hitch confirmation!!!

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ATEC15

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I'm currently using this friction hitch. I've youtubed and google searched this. From my understanding it is called the Xt hitch, but I'm pretty sure there was another way of tying it. Can someone confirm if this is the so called "Xt hitch"? Am I tying it the right way? I've played around with the vt and found that my spliced eye end of the rope would get caught onto the vt, which left the vt bunched up giving me a decend when leaning back on my weight(it would set back after tending slack). This current hitch works perfect with my body weight and runs smooth, so I'm sticking to it. Also by the looks of it, would that be considered a 3-4 or 3-3(wraps/braids)?
image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
I cannot put a name on your hitch, but here is a decent website with many knot and hitch configurations, and good illustration on how to tie and set them.
http://www.animatedknots.com/indexc...jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com#ScrollPoint

I don't understand how your spliced eye would interfere with a VT hitch. If you had tied your own fisherman's knot instead of using a spliced eye, I could see how it would disrupt the VT (I've done it myself). I've had no issues with my a spliced eye rope end ... it gets clipped into my carabiner beside the ends of my eye-2-eye hitch cord and tending pulley ... so the only part touching the VT hitch is bare rope.
 
The splice eye part of my rope(fatter part cause of the splice) touches the vt hitch creating a little friction to not let the vt slide back up and lock. I just noticed yesterday when messing around with my current hitch that I use, it causes the same problem(only when the hitch climber pulley is face toward me), but when the three attachment holes faces me and the wheel is away it runs and grabs perfect. I'll try and make a video later
 
Ok made a short video. So like I said. When the pulley wheels are facing me, the splice tends to touch the hitch and not let it set back. But with the attachment holes facing me it runs good and sets back
 
So I tried the distel hitch and it works great. When pulling myself(hip thrusting motion) it always sets back and locks. BUT the downfall is, it's super tight and not smooth at all to descend. I'm using a 30" 8mm OP e2e on 1/2" NE hi-vee rope. Do you guys think having a 9-10mm e2e would smooth things up, being that it's a thicker rope and won't bind up to hard compared to 8mm. For the distel I'm using 5 top wraps before coming down on 1. Or would a 28" e2e help with less wraps? I'm trying to use as much wraps as possible to have this hitch compact and less sit back, but at the same time run smooth on descend. But the more wraps there is the harder it grabs. And the less wraps there is the farther the sit back. All your help will be greatly appreciated!!!!
 
I think your problems is using a second carabiner. I only use one biner with the spliced end and tending pulley both clipped into it ... keeps the bulky part of the splice away from my VT hitch.
 
That looks like a pinto pulley and not the hitch climber. I could be wrong. Pic is a little dim and not clear. But I'm pretty sure i got the idea. So basically attach my HC to my bridge and just run the termination end back to the carabiner that the HC is on
 
So basically attach my HC to my bridge and just run the termination end back to the carabiner that the HC is on
That's it. It seems kind of silly to add another carabiner. The fewer links in your system the better. But I must admit that I had a little trouble finding that photo because every other photo showed two biners in play. I can't remember where I learned to use just one. BTW, I use a pear shaped biner in this situation versus oval. I own a hitch-climber pulley, but rarely use it.
 
Just tried your way of setting up the system. Being that I have oval carabiners, my HC loads to one side from the termination end pushing against it. Thursday my order comes in from treestuff. Will test the 9mm
 
I was having the same problem using a double fishermens and vt, to overcome this I attach my termination end directly to my bridge with a seperate caribeaner and has work flawless far. Only downside is my bridge is a little more congested than the standard hitch climber mode
 
Don't mean to thread hijack, but hopefully we can both gain some knowledge.

I did happen across a pic of someone claiming it was an actual XT (cross tresse, XT.jpg), so hopefully that helps.

I am still trying to find out the proper way to tie a VT, due to the fact some places show the top leg goes under the bottom on the coils, then switch on overlaps.... Yet the place I put the most trust in is the Tree Climbers Companion, but it is pretty much contrary to what everywhere else shows, by saying the top leg of the coils remains on top for all the wraps and you need a 48"-52" cord for it.

So can someone tell me which is it?


(I swear this guy pulls a magic trick at 0:11-0:14, the top leg somehow ended up under the bottom.)

Also, I'd take a look into the VT with Knut finish - From what I've read, if one of your eye's unwraps/breaks/becomes unhooked, it is supposed to give you a few precious seconds to brace yourself instead of going for a surprise hard ride with Gravity.
Screen Shot 2012-09-06 at 8.08.23 AM.png Hitch_Climber_Pulley_Usage.jpg XT.jpg VT variations.JPG VT that doesn't jam.jpg valdotain-tresse-knot.jpg th.jpg
 
The guy who taught me the XT said it was just a VT with an extra twist in any one of the braids. Whether this is "taxonomically correct” according to the gurus I don't know. The same guy also tried to tell me that a quick hitch was actually called a sheet bend...

Meanwhile in ChipChomper land, I like twisting the last (3rd) braid (I call it a terietary XT or a 3°XT cuz I'm odd like that) before the biner as it seems like twisting the first by the coils (1°XT) makes the coils too tight to break nicely when advancing imho. For the record I was using beeline on tachyon with the 3° XT.

Please feel free to correct me if I'm totally off base with the rest of the world.

Sent from my XT1526 using Tapatalk
 
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