Barber chair
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I recall a member with that name!
(cat-face timber was last seen Dec 28, 2015)
Philbert
It looks like a C*nt, and if you're not quite sure what a c*nt looks like then ask you falling parter
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
A cat face is is an irregularity in the butt log usually cause by rot or disease which looks like a face, usually rendering the log as low grade.
You need to wear a pussycat hat though to fall it.
You need to wear a pussycat hat though to fall it.
Where I was raised in central Florida, catface timber was pine that had been defaced to produce turpentine.
Ron
Ron
When cut for timber the defaced butts, or catface, was cut off and left. Made super hot firewood. Stumps were sometimes processed for a gun powder component.
Ron
Ron
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
I saw one of those once, so I ran for a bandaid.
"Catface"
Yeah they can be caused by Pathogens, insects, fire, accidentally, or modified for Resins Or CMT's (Culturally Modified Trees) as we see here in the red cedar for first nation canoe's that are generally not to be cut. They will have tags on them. By Alaska (north coast BC) we log them but I have to cut a cookie off it and bag them and they bring it up when they are yarding logs. They send the cookie to a lab in Vancouver. ..and thats logging
Its an old wound were the bark is
removed and eventually rots out the heart
Yeah they can be caused by Pathogens, insects, fire, accidentally, or modified for Resins Or CMT's (Culturally Modified Trees) as we see here in the red cedar for first nation canoe's that are generally not to be cut. They will have tags on them. By Alaska (north coast BC) we log them but I have to cut a cookie off it and bag them and they bring it up when they are yarding logs. They send the cookie to a lab in Vancouver. ..and thats logging
Its an old wound were the bark is
removed and eventually rots out the heart
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
A lot of cedar here has a natural east pull ,so i let them go east now after i figured that out.No no don't hold it like a plump bob, use it for a plump bob.
The fist time I went out falling on the coast in '97 and my first official training up to then. I saw him do that. Look at the way the legs are going on the tree and that will often tell the story. Some areas my have a natural 'east' pull and hill pull even know they may not appear that way
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Yeah, this was a deeper face cut than needed, but then I was not expecting to have to wedge it so much. I have a bad habit of making face cuts a bit deeper than needed, which I'm trying to break.
LOL, those were just the backups that I had made from some white oak a few years back - but it was all I had left. And I didn't start off with the sledge either. I used the Stihl wedges (I get them locally) and a 2-1/2lb "boy's axe" that usually does the job well (as it's just a little heavier and longer than a hatchet). But the force on the wedges was huge and in trying to open the cut they all got destroyed. The sledge came out when I got the splitting wedges out - I had to swing it with all I had to drive them in at all.
I will be looking into better wedges, and this reminds me that I have not done that yet.
hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
K&H Red Heads, by the dozen they are cheap.
Deeper than 1/3 isn't the end of the world but it can create some drawbacks. If you're wedging against the lean and have a heavy lift a longer wedge with a shallower taper is going to make it easier to move the tree but having a really deep face means you are giving up space to use those longer wedges. I usually carry two 6" and two 10".
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
That's why I save the one where I got into the tip with the saw (it happens) - I sand them to a blunter taper. Once you get the cut opened with another wedge you can still use them, and they're not as long.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Typically timber has a eastern lean first then a southern lean. Obviously depend on where you are typography, etc. There are always those that grow back north or west into the gaps. When I start a clear-cut I typically start in the southeast corner as the majority will fall out into the cut over. When you start getting hills involved things change some. I also cut in pure northern hardwood stands so conifers are not my game. The few pine plantations I have thinned seem to follow the general rule though. Most trees will grow heavy toward the sun unless prompted otherwise.
As far as jacking timber goes, I've never had the back split out from the pressure. Not that it couldn't happen in compromised wood,but I've never seen it. I also only jack about a dozen trees a year so I really don't have that much experience with it compared to some who do it on the regular. My trees are all hardwood too and under 100 ft tall. Positioning the hinge when jacking a tree is important because you don't want your fulcrum too close to the point of the most pressure. I have jacked trees off the stump that were limb locked and wouldn't move ahead. They just moved up. Those were small trees.
I often cut a 40- 50% face unless other reason cause me not to do so. On a fairly balanced tree a deeper face will make the tree follow it whereas a shallow face might lead to wedging. I had an argument on another site that a guy claimed depth of face has nothing to do with changing the center of gravity and thereby does not get them to fall faster. Yeah ok. Also face types, deep and wide, deep and narrow, shallow and wide, shallow and narrow, snipes,etc all change how the tree comes off the stump and can be the determining factor if you've saved your logs or if you've busted your tree all to hell.
As far as jacking timber goes, I've never had the back split out from the pressure. Not that it couldn't happen in compromised wood,but I've never seen it. I also only jack about a dozen trees a year so I really don't have that much experience with it compared to some who do it on the regular. My trees are all hardwood too and under 100 ft tall. Positioning the hinge when jacking a tree is important because you don't want your fulcrum too close to the point of the most pressure. I have jacked trees off the stump that were limb locked and wouldn't move ahead. They just moved up. Those were small trees.
I often cut a 40- 50% face unless other reason cause me not to do so. On a fairly balanced tree a deeper face will make the tree follow it whereas a shallow face might lead to wedging. I had an argument on another site that a guy claimed depth of face has nothing to do with changing the center of gravity and thereby does not get them to fall faster. Yeah ok. Also face types, deep and wide, deep and narrow, shallow and wide, shallow and narrow, snipes,etc all change how the tree comes off the stump and can be the determining factor if you've saved your logs or if you've busted your tree all to hell.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
I agree that a deeper face cut on a relatively straight tree will commit the tree and cause it to fall faster, and can make the difference between using wedges or not.
Most of the time when I walk up to a tree I know where it should go and how I want to cut it.
My old man I don't ask what went wrong apart from it was rotten and he cut to deep in the face and it let go I dunno what he was doing was just happy he didn't crush me saw lol.
We were scabbing a few crappy logs next to the sawmill to finish off a load of landscape timber, Stringybarks most always rotten in the butts in hard rocky going normally wouldn't bother with rubbish like that but got a few boards out of it for the load.
We were scabbing a few crappy logs next to the sawmill to finish off a load of landscape timber, Stringybarks most always rotten in the butts in hard rocky going normally wouldn't bother with rubbish like that but got a few boards out of it for the load.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Glad he didn't smash that nice 088. lol
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
It's a tree like that where usual felling techniques don't apply.
Without having been there, I would have made a very small undercut or bar width kerf and blasted thru the back cut like I meant it.
It's a tree like that where you want plenty of bar.
You know the 'cat in the canoe', the "man in the boat'? OK! Well we are just talking about the shape of the 'canoe'. Although a small wound may close. a bigger one may attempt to on the ends where patterns may commonly taper
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