stihl ts420's and husqvarna k760's and k750 total rebuilds. best parts to use for $ other than OEM?

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ginsenger

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I am working for a masonry crew with about 20 or more saws. I am a retired master diesel mech, I know there are a few little things I need to know/learn about saws, at least I know that. The company has at least 10 Stihl ts420's and 10 husky k760's and a few k750's. The company doesn't want to spend the $ for OEM rebuild's. right now I have 5 huskys and 2 stihls that need total rebuilds. what is the best way to go for the money and still have a good solid saw that will take a beating and not make me look bad from all my work on them.? Cross performance, hyway, sterns or what. HLsupply is out of the total kits, does anyone else sell total rebuild kits with the tuneup included, at a good price? Or should I buy the stuff separate? Thanks for any help....
 
i have had the best luck with the cross kits they seem to hold up the best and come with caber rings


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so to do that I buy everything else seperate, ,, i don't know who makes the best stuff,,, quality for the money on the seals, bearings, gaskets filters, decompress valve and so on.
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Cross makes very good kits for both saws.
H.L. Supply has a good gasket set for both as well. Although I use a thin coating of yamabond 4 on the Stihl metal base gaskets, as I have seen them leak in the past.
I only use oem air filters on the Stihls. Same goes for decompression valves. I usually plug them, and use an elastostart with the black rope. The black rope is as durable as the husqvarna blue duraline.
I highly discourage aftermaket air filters, as they simply do not filter anywhere close to oem. It's like comparing a Harbor freight tool to a Klein brand quality.
The TS420 tune-up kits are a good deal, if you can get an industrial dealer to sell them at a reasonable price.
 
Cross makes very good kits for both saws.
H.L. Supply has a good gasket set for both as well. Although I use a thin coating of yamabond 4 on the Stihl metal base gaskets, as I have seen them leak in the past.
I only use oem air filters on the Stihls. Same goes for decompression valves. I usually plug them, and use an elastostart with the black rope. The black rope is as durable as the husqvarna blue duraline.
I highly discourage aftermaket air filters, as they simply do not filter anywhere close to oem. It's like comparing a Harbor freight tool to a Klein brand quality.
The TS420 tune-up kits are a good deal, if you can get an industrial dealer to sell them at a reasonable price.
I have seen very few masons use the decompression valve, most just yank the cord till it breaks,,, lol,, plugging it might be the cheapest way to go.. wouldn't a leaky one make the saw run lean???
 
i have had the best luck with the cross kits they seem to hold up the best and come with caber rings


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Thanks, cross is what I was thinking from what I have been reading. I don't really know the little things to check on the finishes of the jugs yet, so that would cover me somewhat.
. For a few dollars more the claim to quality seemed to make sense to me.
 
I have seen very few masons use the decompression valve, most just yank the cord till it breaks,,, lol,, plugging it might be the cheapest way to go.. wouldn't a leaky one make the saw run lean???
searching on the internet one cant hardly get past the HL supply. the y are out of the kits,, after i spent many hrs searching and trying to make the right choice, dam,, back to the pc again.
 
Husky K760 rebuild, New jug spark plug seat has pits that wont seal?? what to do?? I preasure tested with home made seals, Intake side wouldnt quite seal but pressure tested with soapy water around seals and gaskets while it had preasure in it ( although it would not hold pressure for required time) and found no other leaks. what should I do? try copper spark plug washer?, High temp gasket material or aerobic gasket eliminator?, pull the jug and lower the seat past the pits?, send the jug and kit Back?, it is a cross kit...
 
I have idea for better block seal. just 2 flat plates for intake and exhaust with flat rubber and just clamp both at the same time with c- clamp or c-clamp vice grips. ought to work. 40 dollar for seal kit on ebay.
 
Husky K760 rebuild, New jug spark plug seat has pits that wont seal?? what to do?? I preasure tested with home made seals, Intake side wouldnt quite seal but pressure tested with soapy water around seals and gaskets while it had preasure in it ( although it would not hold pressure for required time) and found no other leaks. what should I do? try copper spark plug washer?, High temp gasket material or aerobic gasket eliminator?, pull the jug and lower the seat past the pits?, send the jug and kit Back?, it is a cross kit...
If the pits are real deep I'd send it back.
I put a little drop of oil on the threads of new spark plug. It aids in sealing in a new dry thread. A bit of red silicone in the pit first may help seal it too.
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If you have a timesert spark plug insert kit, that would fix it, as it resurfaces the crush seal ring area with a cutter.
The kits are expensive, ($160), but worth it if you do 10 or so a year like I do.
If you hang the saw upside down, it's possible to install an insert without removing the cylinder. You just have to be careful to get all the shavings out.
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As to the intake seal problem; make sure that you are aware that there are two intake designs. Feb 2013 they changed the air intake area of the intake ports and corresponding flange. They are wider, and if an old flange is installed on a newer cylinder, it wil leak, and vice versa.
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If you are having leak problems at the intake, make sure the bottom pivot flange isn't bent outward from somebody forcing it. It should be straight.
A light coating of WD40 on the face of the rubber sealing surface helps during assembly. If the surface is boogered up it needs to be replaced.
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One thing about the K760 that is a pain,
is that you can't inspect the crankshaft bearings because of the skirts on the counterweights block visual access to the bearings. The seals have to be pulled in order to see the bearings condition.
A simple looseness test doesn't always cut it.
Be wary of a bent crankshaft if you find a bad crank bearing. The clutch is so close to the belt cover that it's quite easy for a dropped saw to get a bent crank. That and other tools being throw on top of them in a truck can cause this too.
It makes them wobble.
At 9,200 rpm it doesn't take long to damage bearings, or the crank bearing pockets.
 
1456624115690.jpgThis flange off a dead saw works well for testing for me.
This one is for testing cylinders for leaks. I saw a bunch of aftermarket cylinders that would leak from the bore holes for installing the cylinder base bolts, that would gouge a hole into the transfer ports, causing a leak that is hard to see.
 
Thanks,,,got dead stihl but not husky yet. but could use the rubber tubes off the saw I am working on. that would test the rubber tubes too as well as the intake seals. I can make the plates, just a matter of doing it. I got 2 more together last night, ready to test too. They are wanting me to hurry up. I been collecting the things I need to do a good slick job. need to learn the carbs and what to look for before the powerhead too.
 
I use a very fine wet stone for sharpening knives and give the gasket surfaces a light decking. They are all pulled around the bolt holes. not much but a little. I stop decking just before All the color of old gasket is gone and then finish with scotch brite pad by hand.
 
Yamabond-4 works great, if you re-use the TS420 cylinder base gasket. Thin coat, both sides.
The aftermarket base gaskets aren't as good at sealing as the Oem ones. If the plastic coating is lifted you should replace it.
Generally speaking, the crank seals don't leak unless a bearing is loose, or a bearing cage comes apart. If it is leaking, there should be a clump of dust & fuel around the leak like flies around a turd.
The only boot leaks I've seen were from boots being pulled from the aluminum flange from the factory, dropped/ran over, or somebody poked it with a screwdriver accidently. They are very durable.
 
I use a very fine wet stone for sharpening knives and give the gasket surfaces a light decking. They are all pulled around the bolt holes. not much but a little. I stop decking just before All the color of old gasket is gone and then finish with scotch brite pad by hand.
What gasket are you talking about? The base gasket is black. :crazy:
 
What gasket are you talking about? The base gasket is black. :crazy:
so far I totally rebuild them if they got low compression. the guys dont quit till the saw is dead and wont start, parts can be flapping in the breeze and as long as it will run they keep going., bearings, seals, jug and piston................ The jug gasket surface and case halves is what I was referring to. my Intake leak i mentioned was from a rubber gasket I trimmed to fit the intake flange and then worked a small hole in the impulse hole with a rattail jewelers file. Just used the exhaust muffler and another piece of 3/16th neoprene
rubber I have a bit of. the gaskets have sofar left some dark coloring on the mating parts jug match to block and both halves
 
I did do have one that crank bearing are out, but on flywheel side... it burnt the crank cup too... another one piston came apart and damaged the cups from parts of the piston hitting it.
 
I have seen them drop a saw from a six foot scaffold, got two that were either dropped from a good bit higher or ran over with the sky trac fork truck. broke ears of the blocks and squashed the fuel tank ect. was going to make 21 out of 2 as opposite sides of block was broke. I put them together and the block surface for the jug matches perfect. I have read to replace both halves together but I have seen each side sold seperat new.
 
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