All the above advice is really good advice. I know I can't get a saw adjusted until it starts getting into the wood. I usually start with factory one turn on each, and yes, absolutely turn the idle up a little, like said, so it doesn't continually stall which happens sometimes. Get her warmed up, drop the idle until the chain stops spinning, or turn up until chain spins, then back off until it doesn't, assuming your clutch is in good working order.... then get a feel for how it walks off the low end. If it stumbles like it wants to stall before throttling up, from my experience it's a little fat on the low. If there's fuel spitting out the muffler or misting, or excessive smoke after a break in, too fat. Once the low end feels like it has good response and is sharp and quick, check the high end. Also, feel the saw for heat. Excessive heat, or warmer than what feels comfortable, is an indication of too lean. Cut with it for a little bit, and adjust as necessary, but just keep in mind that an 1/8 of a turn is a lot on these zamas and Walbros. I use a digital tach as well, wrapped on the spark plug. I love them. You can look in the manual and get factory idle and high r.p.m, and dial it if your saw is stock really fast.
With the 034 and 036, I have not had any saws I can recall that were past 1 1/4 on the turns, unless I m.m.
One thing I have seen more than once: make sure that pulse line is on. (They can slip off easy in these models)
Also, if it seems to stall excessively, take the pulse line off and check the plastic nipple on the tank side. I have had quite a few that had a hairline crack on that nipple, and it raises hell with em, and can even blow up a top end.
Sorry, for the long reply, I just love these models. My tree crews prefer the 036 over the newer saws for general cutting, limbing, etc.. for a mid range saw, they really are hard to beat. Light and powerful, strong and when tunes right they go all day without issue!
So you're the reason I couldn't find one.
