PaladinMan187
ArboristSite Operative
Luckily my saw has the aluminum flywheel still in tact so I think I'm going to stick with that one unless you think there is that much of a gain from doing to the poly version.
064 ported hybrid with poly flywheel
- Thread starter Chainsaw Jim
- Start date
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astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
What epoxies work best with fuel and oil?
What are your preferred brands or types?
What are your preferred brands or types?
The poly flywheel just allows for faster spool up and they seem to move more air up through the cooling fins, just an observation though as I never really tested the flow. I built my old flat top back sround 2008 and that one is still my favorite over the other three I have.
Quick question for anyone here. I have added a "new" 064 to my arsenal that is in great condition. Only issue I have is that it tends to run too fast on the fast idle setting when it fires up -- maybe 2000 RPM too high, almost approaching WOT. Is that something I should fix with a simple back bend to the throttle rod or should I just leave it be. Looks like an easy fix. WDYT?
Chainsaw Jim
CJ Saws, LLC
Very easy fix....
Carb rebuild, check boot and impulse for cracks, replace the crank seals and fuel line.
Not only will it run right it'll also run stronger.
Hard to believe it will run stronger than it already does, but I'll give it a go. This beast is already stronger than my MS 660 when pulling a 32" bar in wood. It only does this quick running on the fast idle setting. Simple carb adjustments will control lo mixture, hi mixture, and lo idle: it responds nicely. Compression is so high that I can hardly measure it.
The original owner said he only used it to cut firewood and never pulled more than a 20" bar. He figures at most 100 hours of operation but he ran it almost every year. I doubt that I'll ever find another one in better shape.
Sometimes the throttle rod needs a tweak as well.
Chainsaw Jim
CJ Saws, LLC
I actually missed that little part where you said fast idle setting.
The more hotrod larger saws are the higher they seem to rev on that setting. I'd be very careful tweaking on the throttle linkage because that hardened steel can be brittle.
I accidentally used the high idle setting on this pipe saw once when firing it up...I hope to god I never make that mistake again.
I'll do the tweak on the throttle rod first and then report back. Original owner said it's been doing that for as long as he can remember -- too fast at the start for his blood also. I've done this a few times on 028 Supers to calm them down on startup. I'll be careful on the bend and I appreciate your warning. About 5 to 10 degrees back should do it. You have to be careful that the lever can still get the carb to WOT and that fast idle is not too low.I actually missed that little part where you said fast idle setting.
The more hotrod larger saws are, the higher they seem to rev on that setting. I'd be very careful tweaking on the throttle linkage because that hardened steel can be brittle.
I accidentally used the high idle setting on this pipe saw once when firing it up...I hope to god I never make that mistake again.
I've bent numerous throttle and choke rods without issue, some of them significantly.
Chainsaw Jim
CJ Saws, LLC
So have I and this worked very well. Not much more bend in the throttle rod was required, just a tweak. I cut the fast idle speed in half so that now it starts and warms up gradually, not running like s jackrabbit. Thanks for the encouragement.
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