Are you on about the top cover when you mention shroud? How is it a pain in the ass? My 52mm on my OEM saw is plugged/no hole ie. OEM 52mm magnum 038. It does not need a decomp and it has no base gasket too. I would just plug the cylinder. I have both top cover and air filter farmertec parts. They both go on and off sweet as a nut.
Huztl FarmerTec MS380, MS381, 038 Build Kit Start to Finish
- Thread starter Bedford T
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Are you on about the top cover when you mention shroud? How is it a pain in the ass? My 52mm on my OEM saw is plugged/no hole ie. OEM 52mm magnum 038. It does not need a decomp and it has no base gasket too. I would just plug the cylinder. I have both top cover and air filter farmertec parts. They both go on and off sweet as a nut.
I put the screw in the cylinder and to install or remove it's a pain. It's behind the handle. I put a photo up. The screw holds that side of the cover in place because there are no screws holding the shroud on on the clutch side on the base of the cover like on the starter side.
The motor is rubber mounted, simply push on the tank and remove the screw with a flat screwdriver, easy peasy.
Oh but you may scratch the paint off the shiny new handle...The motor is rubber mounted, simply push on the tank and remove the screw with a flat screwdriver, easy peasy.
See post # 204
The op posted the screw he was talking about several times and has a photo. See #203
Its a nice looking saw for the copies. I can still swing an axe pretty good. I try to use it everyday.
this is getting old
Its a nice looking saw for the copies. I can still swing an axe pretty good. I try to use it everyday.
this is getting old
I stand by my post, there is enough play in the rubber mounts to move the handle out of the way. At the very least I would remove the handle with my power screw driver then remove the shroud, takes all of 30 seconds. If the shroud gives you problems then I question your ability to do any major component replacement on this saw.
8mm wrench
I agree with Bedford T that the square screw (bolt) could have been put in a better place instead of behind the handle. If the saw had been designed with the screw even 1/2" forward from where it is it would be easier to take out. The 028 is the same way..but they are what they are and you can see places in many saws that could have been designed better, for instance the plastic clamps on the intake boot on the Husqvarna saws when a simple metal hose clamp would have worked better..
I don't understand. Can you explain why?
could scratch it??
I guess he means it's front heavy but don't know what being a new saw would matter..
Perhaps you do this already, but try putting your foot in the rear handle.
That's how I do it but hard to do sometimes with boots on..
I have never struggled to start my 038 mag, not even with new caber rings etc. I just put the rear handle between my legs whilst standing up right and give it a good pull. Just have to brace yourself for a snap back on occasion.
I am lucky to get the edge of my toe in the handle because I got big feet 13eeee and bigger steel toed boots. It slips sometimes. After 50 I quit throwing the saw around. A hard starting saw was an old homelite 700 bow saw that my dad had, I hated it. I was 17 before I was allowed to touch it. Maybe I was just to skinny to crank it. He ran over it with the truck.
He done that on purpose, he got tired of pulling it also.
Steve
Steve
Some of the old saws that used to be hard to start when I was younger turned out to be just out of tune. I've had the old McCullochs like the 1-53 that I thought was so hard to start so I bought another just a couple of years ago, tuned it up, already had good compression, and the thing started as easy as any saw I've had..
