How to remove metal cable grown into a large trunk?

[Johnnybar]

Here's another option. If you want to have a debarker for future use, then it's a win-win: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Stihl-M...086307?hash=item3d38de1fe3:g:k6wAAOSwPhdVH12d
If you are cautious with it's use, you will see color long before you reach steel.

 

[ironman_gq]

You might consider a sawzall with demolition blade to notch each side of the cable's location and yank it out with a tractor or truck. Be very careful of the gear used...chain or cable only....no nylon straps as they act like high powered sling shots and a hook on one can go through a person even behind the cab glass. A slight Vee to the cuts would help release it when pulled.

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Cable is just as bad or worse that straps for yanking anything, they stretch and can whip around when they break. If your going to use cable make sure to lay a blanket or something like that over the mid point of the cable to catch it if it does break.

 

[Metallichg]

How deep is the cable under the bark?

I don't know, have to dig with an axe or saw and chisel and see what I'm up against, got lots of good ideas from this post.

 

[Metallichg]

Cable is just as bad or worse that straps for yanking anything, they stretch and can whip around when they break. If your going to use cable make sure to lay a blanket or something like that over the mid point of the cable to catch it if it does break.

that's a great point!!

 

[Metallichg]

I would make a loop int he cable and hook onto it with a truck or whatever and see if I can't just rip it out... a little axe work around would help.

I think that and a combination of burning, cutting and chiseling will at least tell me if it is worth the work or not. there is blacktop right next to the trunk, so I can get good traction. might just pull the frame apart on my 79 Chevy custom deluxe, but I think it would be worth a try (I think I will lay old carpet on the cable if I do that). Lots of great ideas, I figured other people must have had this problem in the past. either way, this was a great read and will help. it will take a few weeks, but I will have to post what happened, thank you

 

[Metallichg]

You might consider a sawzall with demolition blade to notch each side of the cable's location and yank it out with a tractor or truck. Be very careful of the gear used...chain or cable only....no nylon straps as they act like high powered sling shots and a hook on one can go through a person even behind the cab glass. A slight Vee to the cuts would help release it when pulled.

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I think that is a good idea to keep from trashing a nice chain. maybe worth a try until my hands vibrate offf. Thank you

 

[Metallichg]

with any luck, the cable isn't square around the tree and you're going to run into it cutting the cookie!

Exactly what I'm afraid of. My chain is worth more to me than the wood

 

[HarleyT]

Exactly what I'm afraid of. My chain is worth more to me than the wood

Which is why I suggest trying the stud finder, that is, if the cable is magnetic.

 

[Metallichg]

Which is why I suggest trying the stud finder, that is, if the cable is magnetic.

yes, it is ferrous, worth a try! Thx

 

[HarleyT]

I always save my worn out chains for such chores too.

 

[Metallichg]

Use a magnetic stud finder and spraypaint to follow it's path, and just cut the area on either side using an old junk chain, then pull the cable out with a truck, if the wood/cable doesn't then come out easily, cut a little deeper.

I have a very powerful magnet that would be good for that-I have a plan now. Thanks to all for the ideas-Joe

 

[LegDeLimber]

I don't see a pucker in the bark, where the paint is.
That would tell me the cable is pretty deep, for the tree to have it that well overgrown (compartmentalized ?).
My thought would be to start where the cable exits the bark, if you're going to try extracting it.

Heck, this might be a good spot for one of the carbide tipped chains.
Just bear in mind that rust/oxide will wear most anything you can drag across it.

Cutting cable with a chain or saw blade vs abrasive is probably gonna be a jerky affair and a bit rough on the tool & aggravating for the tool holder

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

We had a family friend who thawed out frozen water pipes on the ranches like that.

How else would it be done? That's how we do it too. 500 amp Detroit diesel powered Lincoln.

 

[Rx7man]

I'd hook something with lots of power to it and pull on it

 

[Rx7man]

Oh, and hooking the welder onto it will probably burn out the welder, usually at high amperages they have limited duty cycle, sometimes as low as 20% over a certain amount of time.. lets say 10 minutes.. It would very easily become very expensive wood

 

[Big Block]

How else would it be done? That's how we do it too. 500 amp Detroit diesel powered Lincoln.

fire

 

[cedarhollow]

lot of good ideas here, i was going to say carbide tipped chain, but what do I know. I like the angle grinder with carving wheel and giant welder and old chain ideas. whatever ways you choose go easy and follow the cable path through the tree and after much work you will get it out I'm willing to bet. A good time to wear protection when doing this. I would not destroy a classic old chevy. I got a feeling it will never pull through without getting it loose first. and how well will green wood burn if you do get cable red hot?

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

fire

Kind of tough when the line is 10ft underground or in a wall!

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

As far as the cable, I'd not even fuss with it. Cut that part off and call it junk. At least that's what we do when we get steel in wood. It's not worth ruining chains or sawmill blades (usually)

Did have a customer last year want some old oak timbers made into 1bys. They came from an old barn from somewhere in the L48 and he paid $$$$$ for them (like more than a whole new barn cost alot!) They were loaded with old square nail pieces Like the nails mostly rusted, but not fully. He agreed to $35/blade., swore up and down he pulled out all the metal.

Killed about 10 blades on those timbers.
Funny thing too, he squeaked hard at $350 for blades, but had no issue spending several 10ks on the wood.

 

[cedarhollow]

penny wise and pound unconsious