McCulloch Chain Saws

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Oh, I am definitely concerned, there is no seal in the oiler button or the choke button and none indicated in the ipl. I think the sawdust is accumulated there due to carb spit back, I'm not necessarily sure that is where its coming in from.
As a side not, the filter is the normal flocked wire screen that all these old macs have. The rubber is intact all around it and seems in good shape.

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I am thinking it may be the fuel line pass through. Will double check it and maybe add some sealer to it.
 
How do you remove the friction shoes from a right hand start clutch? The starter pawls have excessive play leading to intermittent catching, and I would like to re-rivet them, but to do so I need to take the shoes off the clutch.
 
Do you have the clutch off now? There is a garter spring in a groove in the shoes that holds them in place, pop the spring out and the shoes come off.

Do something very relaxing before you try and put it back together as a great deal of patience in generally necessary.

Mark
 

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How do you get the spring apart? I can barely see the ends of it, the plate is in the way.

Do something very relaxing before you try and put it back together as a great deal of patience in generally necessary.

Thanks for the tip! haha
 
I have never had success unhooking the spring although they say it is possible and there even appear to be special plier like tools for the task. I just work the spring out wherever I can get a pry on it.

Do you have a photo of the one you are working on? Some are nearly impossible to get apart with a large retained fixed over the springs.

Mark
 
Do something very relaxing before you try and put it back together as a great deal of patience in generally necessary.

Mark

That's a very good tip, it's quite maddening. Its on par with doing a recoil spring for the first time.

Eric
 
No picture at the moment, but yes the retainer is certainly in the way. I will try again when I get out to the shed tonight.
 
I am thinking it may be the fuel line pass through. Will double check it and maybe add some sealer to it.

So my electrical tape around the fuel line to seal it failed miserably, I think that is the source of all the sawdust. Any ideas how to seal it up short of the OE line?
 
I found the proper line on eBay but the seller wants $30 for it!!!!!!!! That's what I paid for the saw lol.
I am thinking maybe a piece of heat shrink tubing around the outside of the line may work.
 
If you run proper (automotive) rubber fuel line then the hole is about the right size. I think that's close to what they came with, plus the barbs on the tank and carb are definitely large enough to support using it. I've had good luck using wiring grommets etc. for fuel lines passing through airboxes/tanks.

On another note, got the clutch apart (thanks Mark!) re-peened the rivets then had some difficulties putting the clutch back together. My father was over and he tried to assemble it, got it together in about 30 seconds, I had been trying for 15 minutes. Typical dad move. :bowdown:
 
Bar mounts: I know I can adapt a 3002 stihl bar (090 etc) to fit the large frame macs, can I do the same with a large mount Husqvarna bar?
 
If you run proper (automotive) rubber fuel line then the hole is about the right size. I think that's close to what they came with, plus the barbs on the tank and carb are definitely large enough to support using it.

I just measured the two types of hoses and the 1/4" (I.D.) rubber auto/mower fuel line is nearly a perfect fit. It's just a hair larger (O.D) than what's on my 380 which is a good thing for the desired seal and likely due to the original line shrinking over time..., if it is the original line and not actually a replacement using the common 1/4" rubber line anyway. You can get some pretty high tech braided stuff for a buck or two a foot.
 
Currently it is 3/16" rubber fuel hose, I've found the 1/4" is a good fit in the airbox and acceptable on the carb nipple, but too loose on the tank nipple.
 
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