Stihl MS310 bar and chain questions

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Screamineagle2003

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Hi there! I am new to the post so let me first say that I have been reading and using the tips from ArboristSite.com for quite some time now and have always been impressed with the amount of knowledge and experience. I have a good bit of experience cutting wood but not a professional by any means, never used anything over 20”. So I couldn’t resist a craigslist ad and bought a Stihl MS310 for $125.00 a couple months ago. Absolutely nothing wrong with it except for a broken chain catcher which I replaced. It still has 135lbs compression but didn’t have the power I expected it to have. I did the muffler mod, the timing advance, and retuned. Not it growls with a 20” bar and tears through wood. Excellent!

So here comes the question. I recently had sever large oaks come down in my yard, some measuring 36-40” at the base. I would like to go at it with a bigger bar. I am quite certain that it will do a 24” bar with a full skip semi chisel chain. I was even thinking the Woodland pro 30SCS84 which is cut at 25 degrees that would further keep up the rpm. I would like to know your opinion of going with a 28” bar/chain. I could use the same Woodland pro full skip semi chisel chain for 28” set at 25 degrees. There is not that much price difference for the bigger bar and chain. I read about oiling of the bar, but I can’t see why a 28” could not be oiled the same as a 24”. Isn’t the same rate of chain going through the oilier? I have not intension of using this for anything small, I have a Husqvarna 445X .325 chain (modded too) for that. One last thing to mention is that over next winter I plan on putting a 390 top end on this with porting of course. Thank you for any advice you can give.
 
You could try it, but a 28" bar is a lot to ask of a 60cc saw. Actually, in my opinion, a 24" is borderline, but running skip tooth chain with the oiler maxed out, it'll probably work for occasional use. Personally I wouldn't try a 28", but that's me.

Regarding the oiler ability, yeah it's the same amount of chain going past the oiler in a given timeframe, BUT the chain then goes around more bar and through more wood, so there's less oil by the time it gets back to the oiler. If it's not putting out enough oil, you could pull the bar out halfway through the cut and give it a few piss revs.

Or, on the other hand, several oaks that size seem like a great excuse to get your hands on a big saw...
 
Ah, I never thought of the length of the chain retaining oil. I would love to bring home another (bigger) saw but my wife would not be amused. So tempted to try to try the 28" but I guess in this case size matters.
 
Shine up that 310 and throw it on Craigslist. Should bring $300 easy. There's a nice Shindaiwa 757 on the trading post for $325 shipped IIRC. That Shindaiwa would cut big oak happily all day long. Just my .02.
 
The next time that saw needs rebuilt put a 390 piston and cylinder on it. With a slightly modified muffler and slightly richened carburetor you won't think it's the same saw...I believe they use the same oil pump on the 390 as they do the 290 and it seems quite adequate for most jobs and at least a 24" bar and is adjustable. I usually limit my 390 to a 20" bar however.
 
I think I am going to be safe and go the 24" route with a semi chisel skip chain. I think I am asking for trouble going 28" I will definitely report back when I get this setup going and start cutting.
My only question I have now is what will be the difference between a Stihl 33RMF84 Semi chisel skip chain at 30 degrees compared to the Baileys house brand Woodland pro 30SCS84 cut at 25 degrees (besides price) in hardwood? I have experimented before with 35 degree but found for the most part 30 degrees is much faster and stays sharp longer in hardwood. Thanks for the advice!
 
Oh BTW, I know it makes more sense to sell this saw and buy bigger but... This thing starts on 2 pulls every time and cuts like crazy with the muffler, timing mods. I don't think I could sell it.
 
Sold a 391 few weeks back, and I got a 390 for sale now...28" is to much....

I only had 20" on them....I cut wood with a guy that had a brand new 391 a few months ago...he had a 25" on his...thank god I ran into him...he didn't max out his oiler, and the bar was way to hot and dry,(oiler was set in middle from factory)....I think it barely oiled the 25"....but I probably like more oil on my bar than some....I cut hard wood and it is tough in saws, bars, and chains.....

All In all if you can't use this as an exscuse to task yourself into a new saw, you will just have to make do with your realiable 310...
 
Sold a 391 few weeks back, and I got a 390 for sale now...28" is to much....

I only had 20" on them....I cut wood with a guy that had a brand new 391 a few months ago...he had a 25" on his...thank god I ran into him...he didn't max out his oiler, and the bar was way to hot and dry,(oiler was set in middle from factory)....I think it barely oiled the 25"....but I probably like more oil on my bar than some....I cut hard wood and it is tough in saws, bars, and chains.....

All In all if you can't use this as an exscuse to task yourself into a new saw, you will just have to make do with your realiable 310...
It makes your bar and chain last longer if you oil it plenty. If anyone is worried about the environment they can always pay extra and buy the new enviro oil..
 
It makes your bar and chain last longer if you oil it plenty. If anyone is worried about the environment they can always pay extra and buy the new enviro oil..
I definitely don't want to pollute any more than I have to, but on a $1000 saw, you don't want to take a risk
 
Oh BTW, I know it makes more sense to sell this saw and buy bigger but... This thing starts on 2 pulls every time and cuts like crazy with the muffler, timing mods. I don't think I could sell it.
My Modified 310 is a very smooth and powerful saw! MM made all the difference....also a 16" bar......but I have other bigger saws which you don't have rt now but will if you hang around here!!! lol
Keep cuttin' Brother!!!
 
Cheeves, I see that you did the M-mod. I'm curious if you did the timing advance as well? The MM made a huge difference which I did first. Then I did the timing advance-ground 1/3 of the key out. Wow!!! Even more power and no lag whatsoever. The power that this thing makes now is why I asked about the 28" bar. I'm no expert but I think it has to be making 4.5 horsepower or more now.
 
I didn't do the advance either, seemed like the saw was close to having kick back while starting and I didn't want it to get worse. I might have if the saw had a de-comp but it doesn't. I'm very happy with mine with the muffler mod and carb adjustment.
 
If your compression gauge is correct on a reading of 135psi I would pull the cylinder check & at least replace the piston ring/s at that reading (if correct) is on the low side
 
Hi Little Al, I did some research and never got a clear answer of what the compression range should be. I kinda figured that 135psi is kind of on the low end but still usable. Out of curiosity, what would be the correct readings to be OK and what would they be with new rings? I was thinking instead of a re-ring, that over the winter I would go to a new 390 top end. I have been seeing the kits on E-bay really cheap, but those have to be made in China at that price. Anyone have any experience with those?
 
Actually, a brand new re-ring job sometimes doesn't have great compression readings, it's after you run it awhile that the compression goes up.. It also depends on the type of saw, high performance or not..reed valve engine or not...My Lawn Boy reed valve engine is lucky if it has 90 psi but still runs every week..
 
So I ordered the 24” bar with a Woodland pro 30SCS84 25 degrees full skip semi chisel chain. It is supposed to be here on Tuesday and pretty excited to try it out. I will post the results when I start cutting.
 
I wouldn't get to caught up in compression readings....I thiughtninneed a comp gauge and I used it once when I got it, haven't used it since....It makes peoplenover analyze a good saw...if she running good, don't mess with her yet...
 
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