best bar for small mill

[Dustan250]

Hey guys,

So I have the g777 and the mini mill g555b with a stihl MS 250 18". I bought the saw 2 years ago for personal firewood cutting and since started using it a few weeks ago for milling for my own use. The bar is the stihl rollomatic and I noticed it was a hollow bar and was wondering what you guys use on your mills. I think a solid core would be best for me the mill seems to be hard on the laminated bar, it is bent now and need a bar for just milling and use the current one for normal use after I straighten it. Looking at bars there is so many to chose from what do I need to buy?

Saw has muffler mod done and tuned a little heavy for milling but seems to cut pretty good, I have the granberg rip chains. .325 x 63 gauge.

 

[Mac&Homelite]

I have milled quite a bit with my 20" Stihl es bar. Still hasn't bent on me. So I attribute it to not having any support on the other end, which I believe is a downfall on that Granberg model. I think an e- super bar, or a solid core bar in general, would work much better for you use, but I think ultimately some support on the end of the bar is necessary. Out of curiosity, what are you milling with it?

 

[Dustan250]

Looking at the bigger mills I see they have a 2nd guide, I just wanted to get started and see how it worked, I was looking at the 661 and the 30" mill. I found a guy giving a bunch of red pine away on craigslist list so i grabbed my biddies 14' trailer and headed over and grabbed the biggest stuff. He thought it was jack pine! Has about 80 trees down and I just can't mill fast enough lol.

 

[Mac&Homelite]

Oh man, you need a larger saw! Here's what my setup has been so far and it's been super accurate. About 1/16" +/- over a 7' section. The second bar on the tip of the bar really makes a difference in the rigidness of the mill. Going to upgrade at some point to a larger saw and bar, but this works nicely for the smaller logs.

 

[Dustan250]

What mill is that? I have been looking to add a 2nd cross bar for ripping 2x4's so I don't have to keep moving it. Maybe for tax season I can get a 661

 

[Brian72]

I have a Granberg 48" mill and I run a Stihl 661 with a 36" or 28" bar depending on the size of the log. We've made a few benches and tables and it works very well. I'm in no way trying to discourage you from milling but if it were me, I'd look into a local mill to saw it up. Maybe keep a few logs to mess around with. In my opinion, the chainsaw mills are great for bigger wood or custom slabs but it is very physical and slow work and you have a big pile there.

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[Brian72]

Sorry I didn't answer your original question. The Stihl ES bars and Oregon power match have both worked well for me.

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[Mac&Homelite]

What mill is that? I have been looking to add a 2nd cross bar for ripping 2x4's so I don't have to keep moving it. Maybe for tax season I can get a 661

It's a homemade one actually! It's works really well, except that the height adjustment is kinda a annoyance to adjust. Milling with a chainsaw is fine if you have unlimited time or some really large or awkward logs. For all that small stuff, I would probably second having someone bandsaw it. Setting up that first cut takes the longest and pine is usually downright miserable to cut up. However if you do see yourself contracting CAD (chainsaw aquisition disorder), or even milling larger slabs in the future, a 661 is something to look at. It can pay for itself, but it is a rather large initial investment for sure.

 

[Dustan250]

If I had a bigger saw I would already have bigger trees lol. I don't take a lot of free trees because I wouldn't be able to mill them so I have to look at them and pass by. I do have a 30" hemlock just waiting to be cut down and milled into beams. The funny thing is we have a Norwood lm29 at work and I do know 2 other people with the big hydraulic woodmizers. I seem to enjoy the CSM tho it gives me something to do.

 

[Dustan250]

I guess since the saw is a home owners they don't make solid bars for them, at least from stihl.

 

[Brian72]

If I had a bigger saw I would already have bigger trees lol. I don't take a lot of free trees because I wouldn't be able to mill them so I have to look at them and pass by. I do have a 30" hemlock just waiting to be cut down and milled into beams. The funny thing is we have a Norwood lm29 at work and I do know 2 other people with the big hydraulic woodmizers. I seem to enjoy the CSM tho it gives me something to do.

If you enjoy milling, that's all that counts Dustan. That's how we all got sucked into this. I'm sure somebody makes a solid bar. Maybe check Oregon or Baileys online. If you end up getting a 661, I suggest getting 63 gauge chain. I've heard it oils better. I still think I'll be adding an auxiliary oiler to my mill. It seems very stringy with oil.

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[Mad Professor]

That will be tough with a stihl 3005 mount bar

 

[Dustan250]

Yeah I just got the standard one it came with, I'll just be more mindful when using it till I can afford the big saw. I just looked at a 461 and 661 side by side, things are huge compared.

 

[SeMoTony]

That will be tough with a stihl 3005 mount bar

I may misunderstood. My ms-460, 046, 066 & 661 all came with 3/8 .063 b&c & drive sprocket the 046 was an import from out of state ,the rest local. Wide open oil faucet works even up to 60" bar when I use the top of the bar. Now 72" is in my stock "just in case". Time will tell if enough oil is delivered and carried for this new bar if it is needed. The 60" was bought with the same attitude about, in case. When it was used for 4 cuts another 1 or2 cuts could have been made with the 72" that I lacked. Keep safe while you enjoy

 

[Brian72]

I may misunderstood. My ms-460, 046, 066 & 661 all came with 3/8 .063 b&c & drive sprocket the 046 was an import from out of state ,the rest local. Wide open oil faucet works even up to 60" bar when I use the top of the bar. Now 72" is in my stock "just in case". Time will tell if enough oil is delivered and carried for this new bar if it is needed. The 60" was bought with the same attitude about, in case. When it was used for 4 cuts another 1 or2 cuts could have been made with the 72" that I lacked. Keep safe while you enjoy

Mine came with 3/8 .50 chain. I just wasn't thinking when I had the shop order it. It oils ok bucking and such but seems to be lacking when milling.

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[Dustan250]

I put the new bar on and lightly titend the 2 bolts. I way over titend it the first time and the bolts sunk into the bar. 40 dollar learning curve lol. I cut up a small log with the new bar a fresh rip chain and it looks great. 2x6 was only a 32nd off and smooth again, it was very choppy from the cup in the old bar. How much more saw is the 661 over the 461? If I want to run a say 28" bar will the 461 be enough? Thanks for all the help guys I'm have a blast so far.

 

[SeMoTony]

I put the new bar on and lightly titend the 2 bolts. I way over titend it the first time and the bolts sunk into the bar. 40 dollar learning curve lol. I cut up a small log with the new bar a fresh rip chain and it looks great. 2x6 was only a 32nd off and smooth again, it was very choppy from the cup in the old bar. How much more saw is the 661 over the 461? If I want to run a say 28" bar will the 461 be enough? Thanks for all the help guys I'm have a blast so far.
View attachment 592179

My avatar has the last time I needed a sixty inch bar. That is an ms 460 which pulled the skip chisel chain just fine. It is a matter of matching speed of cutting to the power available. I picked up a 661 with a ported cylinder for less than a stock one from a dealer. Had to open the muffler & still need to advance timing a bit to get all that is there, but I'm glad I took the chance thru trading post. Now I got a 72" bar just in case. That is same reason the60" bar came my way but below the alaskan is wear the longer bar would have been used Maybe start filling your piggy bank and watching the Trading post for the saw that you can afford and can't live without.
Stay safe while you are enjoying this

 

[Brian72]

I put the new bar on and lightly titend the 2 bolts. I way over titend it the first time and the bolts sunk into the bar. 40 dollar learning curve lol. I cut up a small log with the new bar a fresh rip chain and it looks great. 2x6 was only a 32nd off and smooth again, it was very choppy from the cup in the old bar. How much more saw is the 661 over the 461? If I want to run a say 28" bar will the 461 be enough? Thanks for all the help guys I'm have a blast so far.
View attachment 592179

I'd definitely recommend going as big as you can. The 661 gives you way more options to run bigger bars in the future. Ripping requires more power, especially when getting into hardwood. Buy once, cry once. Lol. Glad you're enjoying your new hobby. I've only been doing this for a few months. It's a constant learning process and these forums are jammed with good people and information.

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[Dustan250]

Thanks for the tips and help guys, I cut up 9 2x6's tonight and notice some bowing while taking off the top, how should I cut the log to minimize this if possible? Seems they curl up away from the center, The center cut is nice and straight tho.



PS the 661 is the saw I've decided to get, start the savings begins.

 

[Brian72]

Thanks for the tips and help guys, I cut up 9 2x6's tonight and notice some bowing while taking off the top, how should I cut the log to minimize this if possible? Seems they curl up away from the center, The center cut is nice and straight tho.

View attachment 592363

PS the 661 is the saw I've decided to get, start the savings begins.

You're always gonna have stress released. No way around it. Straight logs will move less. Good stacking and stickering and weight on top while drying will help keep it to a minimum.

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