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That is a good looking bar and saw. Saw looks NOS. Is it, or is it a built saw using NOS parts, or even a Restored saw? Here's the different bar mounts side by side. These are old pictures and I'll try to get some more in depth type of pics this weekend. I've got to switch some bars around...

Where are you finding all of these NOS parts? Make sure to remove the little brass screw in the lower oil feed hole in the T looking section, or your oiler won't be able to feed oil out to the bar. Looking forward to seeing some pics of your final assembly.

Bars for the following saws will work, but you must modify your bar plates and install an xl12's bar adjuster... AND don't tell me they won't, because I'm running a 36" on my C91 and a 44" and my C9 with the gear reduction unit. Oiling works great and no issues with anything else. HOMELITE XL...

I can't believe you found one of these NOS. Your going to love having it though as long as you can modify your saw to accept it. You may have to swap out your drive case side to use it due to how the oil goes in, then makes a 90 degree turn, another 90 degree turn then feeds back out a smaller...

Any chance these aftermarket parts for the Homelites are still available? Any chance you may have some of these to show or even possibly sale? Here's what I believe everyone has been talking about with some of the reed modding... This is what I more commonly see done to reed assemblies I buy...

Your points aren't grounded? They should show continuity when they are closed and be open when they are open. If your points test out like this the only thing you have left is your condenser...

The ignition coils on these saws are kinda mushy from age and some rubber deteriation. Doesn't mean they are bad... Have you ohm'ed out your ignition components yet? Checked where the plug wire goes into the coil? The C5G I'm currently restoring was put aside into storage because of a bad...

If you indeed have no spark, the most common item to go bad, as far as the ignition system goes, is the plug wire comes loose from the ignition coil. As for the rest here are a few usual simple test to test the rest of your ignition system. All you need is a ohm meter of some sort. In these pics...

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Just a thought here, but is the fuel line OK? I was running into this problem using cheapo clear type fuel line which was allowing air into the line through the pressuring and depressuring durring the heat cycling after the saws were cut off. Now I use good thick and tight sealing 3/16 high...

I believe this is sorta what your looking for.... http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=42768

I was just wondering if anyone out there had the following Homelite parts and were willing to sale them. These are all I pretty much lack before I can finish my C5G restoration. Thrust Washers --- 58583 59929 59081 58118-A I really need the 59081 the most on these Seals --- 58126...

I think I saw a 3/8 sprocket/hub on ebay yesterday for the C-Series saws. Don't know who made it though...

Didn't have UT numbers, just the serial numbers... I don't know the exact year they started using UT numbers, but other than the C72, I don't believe any of the C-Series saws were around for them...

The C5 has the same spider setup as the other C-Series saws. All that was necessary to make them a 6 shoe setup was to add the other 3 shoes to them... I'de just keep an eye out or contact some people on here. I'm sure someone would probably have 6 new shoes somewhere.

The C5 was originally sold with 3 bar sizes available --- 14", 17" and 21", not up to a 30" like what it says on acresinternet. I'm going off of the original C5 specs sheet from Homelite Corporation too. The C7 was originally sold with 14" to 25" bars and then there's the C9 that was sold with...

I, as you probably know, still use a lot of the Old Homelite C-Series saws. In fact I think I have your site listed as one of the providers of a few parts for them. Are you still able to get the ignition coils for them? I don't need any at the moment, but I was curious if you could still get...

Bars for the following saws will work as long as you use the XL-12 bar adjuster and modify the bar shims/spacers a very minor amount to where the chain won't rub them...

Ahhh. You must be talking about the carburetor deflector. Yeh, I usually just take them off and set them aside to if I ever decide to put them back on. Honestly they don't kill power on these saws too much, but they do kill it down some. Just remember if you take it off to retune your saws high...

Never realized it before, but you actually have an air filter cover off of the original C-Series saws. They were enclosed except for the rear portion just over the handle bars. They changed the design because this hole would get plugged when the saw was used a lot in heavy snow. Here is a pic of...