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@unclemoustache Sounds like we are in the same boat. I am now building a wooden garden house with sauna from my own milled lumber. Only that will already pay for the about 10k we invested (in my mind, because I know I actually should not ignore my time as a currency).

Love mine. It's my go to saw 95% of the time. Now 10 years old but only skips a beat when someone puts oil in the gas tank. Shake it out. And on you go.

The only thing that I regularly see that is build to last, are the computers that are leased. Simple Dell HP or Lenovo Workmachines or the servers. And certain powertools. Like the Fein brand Hilto or blue bosch appliances. Quality components, nice engineering etc. If only those engineers would...

@Cease232 what size is your mill?

For up to 25 inches maybe 30, that will do.

The only decent thing to do is telling the neighbor he is sorry. But that's just me. (And if I where his wife, I would leave as soon as I would see the opening post, but she's probably used to this kind of Neandertaler impulses).

I'm not sure if your wife is in fault here. Unless you clearly stated "never lend out my tools to anyone and specifically to our retard neighbor". Who would guess he would do such a thing. . .

Sharpen and sharpen. And lower your rakers. If you seesaw, you didn't optimize your chain. It should be one smooth (still relatively low) motion.

Then rent one. Preferably with the operating dude. Or build one. If you are a bit practical (and can weld), you can build a great cheap bandmill for the price of a good milling saw with attachment. And after you are done, you still saved yourself two weeks. Plus a bandmill is far more reliable...

And it depends on the saw. For example, a 390 and a 395 are pretty close HP wise, but the 395 is build for longer bars.

No, that is not what I was trying to say. And I don't think that someone in the market for a 661 needs this kind of calculation. It's a guideline. Not a maximum length. But, that is about the comfort zone of a saw. You might take a size bigger or shorter, but not deviate to much. And guess what...

In case of a newish saw, I use the calculation every 10cm (about 4 inches) per HP. Give or take a little. Considering you actually use the whole bar. Some people don't like the bend over and would use a 40" bar like a Bushcutter. If you use a much longer bar, you'll likely wear out your clutch...

Don't use it for milling or noodling anymore. But that is what I would do.

I noticed my 372 does not clear the chips very efficient. Did you mitigate that somehow for milling?

Don't you have those ex rental 6401 Makita's over there?

It does have a professional bar. But I would not even spend the gas money on it.

That is exactly what is happening with the yard loader. Even worse when you steer a tiny bit to much and the whole thing violently tries to topple over.

To be sure, I am talking about kilo's. 1 ton kilo equals 2200 lbs. That case 580 looks very handy. But is to big. A crane would be practical. Even with a yard loader dropping such a log on the mill involves a lot of prayers, and I'm not even religious.

Since not running Chinesium is on the table, what is the opinion on Newish copies versus very old originals? I hate that we in Europe lost our industry for a huge part, and that is what is holding me back (and the big scale slavery and worse stories are not making it easier). But sometimes you...

Thanks you guys! Those 1000kg happen ones a year. Most are easily handled with a small yard loader (Weidemann 1230). We live near the Netherlands. Everything is flat. Now I know I can skip looking for a tractor. Those 50hp and above are just to big to store and move around with children and...