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Yeah Dad had a can similar to that in the late 60s/early 70s.

Good experiment. Now I'm curious to see the results from the Great Value pods.

Hope you get some before and after pics

Is that groove on the flywheel side where the seal rides? From the looks of your picture the bearing was slipping on the crank.

Just a guess but I think that might be a 261 piston judging by the dished top.

Check this one from the same guy. Fixing his plumbing... omg A little slow going at first, but you will be laughing so hard you will have tears in your eyes before it's over lol.

"Here is the secret... In order for you to know something.. you have to LEARN it." Lol 90% of the population is baffled by that statement.

I have PM'd him on 2 other forums and he hasn't replied. It's anyone's guess where he and Sawtroll have gone to.

Glad you got the flywheel off. Looks like it was practically welded on there lol. I've found heating the pocket to around 270 degrees or so will expand the pocket enough for the bearing to drop right in with no pressing, so you might find it splits easier than you think.

For the flywheel, loosen the flywheel nut until it sits flush with the end of the crankshaft, Put a flat blade screwdriver between the back of the flywheel and the case and twist while at the same time tapping on the end of the crankshaft with a brass hammer. make sure the screwdriver is prying...

Does such an animal even exist? I see dual ring full skirt windowed, and single ring partial skirt windowed.

I wasn't aware there were aftermarket filter covers available for the Jonsered 625/630/670 saws. If you want to split your cases without a puller, remove all the case bolts and heat the bearing pocket with a propane torch or heat gun and pry the cases apart carefully. The bearing will usually...

The 272 piston/cylinder is a direct bolt on. The air filter cover will not fit snuggly when attached to the top cover as the 272 spark plug angle means the spark plug sits higher and will contact the air filter cover and prevent it from seating in place. Also, when swapping to a 272 cylinder you...

Will your spreadsheet include manufacturers other than Stihl and Husqvarna?

Yes I noticed that and was thinking along the same lines as you.

This is one of those threads that could spiral out of control and last 100 pages lol. I want someone to clearly define what a "Pro" saw is, but you have to apply that definition to saws manufactured only within the last 60 years (just to keep it simple hahahaha). Have at'r boys and girls..

The first digit is the year of manufacture per Husqvarna standard for that era, not the first 2 digits. The next 2 digits are the week. However, your serial tag obviously doesn't follow the standard as there is no week 55. If you look inside the plastics of your saw, you can clearly see the date...

You are close but the standard layout of the serial number on Husky saws from approx. 1986 until approx. 1995 was as follows: My 1990 262XP Serial number: 0370646 First number = year eg. "0" would be 1990 Second 2 numbers would be the week of manufacture eg. "37" would be week 37 (approx...

I was wondering about @Huskybill myself just now. I know he wasn't everyone's cup-O'-tea, but I found him interesting to read and I do miss his posts. He occasionally mentioned he had health issues - I do hope he is okay.

I've owned and used my 272XP for over 20 years now cutting firewood. It's a workhorse of a saw and nice and compact for a 70+ cc saw. I think you are going to really like your brand new 272!