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I have a Laguna 1412, it's a nice saw and accurate. I can resaw up to 14" thick with this. So on a project if I've using a 9/4 board, I can split this, resulting in two 1" thick bookmatched pieces. I also have come to use the bandsaw whenever possible to break down my slabs prior to a project...

I'm a woodworker that mills wood to support his hobby. So my focus is on producing high grade material to build my pieces with. I mill with a CSM and I purposefully mill thicker boards, usually 9/4 or 10/4 thick. Then I dry it and resaw with my shop bandsaw to the dimensions I need, works...

It's hard to tell with out a picture, try to post one. A few other factors; -How wide is the split? -How dry is the wood? -How you plan to use the slab? Are you just trying to stop the splitting or build with it now? -What would look better, epoxy or dovetails? If the slab is not dried all...

How long are your splits at the ends? I always expect some end splitting, even with anchorseal, it's just part of drying wood. Don't trim the ends until they are dry, doing so while they are wet will only allow potentially new end splits. If stickering I always try to put the sticker close to...

I would be concerned with air flow, or more accurately the lack of it. If you could stack it outside and get it down to about 15-20% then you should be good to store it in the shed. If you need to store it in the shed I think some fans would be helpful.

Nice job, really unique!

The purples and browns in that wood tell me it's black walnut. Also looks some of the sapwood has rotted away, but the heartwood is intact. This matches black walnut also, the heartwood is very resistant to decay.

What he said^^^^^. You should have some solid heartwood with logs that big, but your sapwood always goes first. If it's white oak you will definitely be fine. Also don't expect a lot of drying just because they are dead for a few years, and oak dries slower than other species, esp white oak...

First, get the #4 Lie Nielson, I had a bunch of used Stanley's, sold most of them off after Santa left me a #4 Lie Nielson. I absolutely love it. Still nice to have a few beat up planes, but the Nielson is what I use mostly. I completely agree, milling needs to support your hobby, not become...

Welcome to the forum. I too mill my own lumber for my woodworking hobby (addiction). Started with an older model used 660 for milling and kept adding saws from there. So I do have some toughts on this. Before i got into milling I had a 025 (the precursor to your MS250) and a 039. Picked up a...

I don't think I'd refer to that as spalted maple, that traditionally has dark lines along the growth rings. At first I thought it could be stain from metal, but that usually is more isolated and you didn't say you found any metal in the log. How long were the logs sitting before being milled...

Man that is sweet looking Ambrosia. Is that Silver Maple?

Beauty of a bench. A nice workbench really ups your game when woodworking. Made mine out of Red Oak, weighs a ton and takes a ton of abuse. I haven't posted any projects on here for a while so here's a few now that this thread is up and running. Chair and table made from black walnut, my...

Dave, I see it, a woman's figure is in that slab, pretty cool!! English walnut is stunning and it's known for having a lot of sapwood.

First off I'd still see how the slabs turn out, I think there is a great chance they will be fine. I'm sure the tarp prevented air flow. you need air circulation. If the tarp was draped over the stack that caused the problem. If the tarp was supported so it was off the pile (not draped over the...

White Oak is tougher to dry than Red Oak because of the tyloses. https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/tyloses White Oak is a wood that you can use outside, for barrels and for shipmaking. The tyloses present in the wood block water movement, making White Oak...

Ok, I see now, you had everything stacked and stickered, started getting some checking, then tried to slow done drying and developed some mold, is that correct? I can see you are probably thinking you can't win for losing. Well I'm not far from you and being in the Mid Atlantic region also I...

Seems like a lot of mold qyestions/problems lately on here. But, on to your question. Sure you could spray with some 3 to 1 water to bleach to kill the mold, or you could sand it off later. To have a little surface mold is typically not a big deal and once the wood gets dry enough the mold...

Freshly cut wood contains both free and bound moisture. The wet drenched feel of the wood is from the free water and that will evaporate rather quickly if stacked and stickered off the ground. Seal ends, put stack in area with good air flow and cover stack with roofing material or plywood. If...

I'd like to see the butt end too, but with that not in consideration, I would start on the left side. Meaning, looking at the photo, the left side of the log, the side that is vertical, I'd make my first cut there. The reasons are; - Looks like the flattest/ straightest part of the log - You...