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Hey, I forgot to mention this. If you're looking for basic info on the saw, just do a search for the saw online. But, it may not show anything, if that's the case, then use the number 351. That should help. Husqvarna changed their numbers a while ago. It may not give you the precise stats...

Here's the Marl. I know, you get on here to ask about one knot, and we keep throwing more at you.

Yes, I'll use the running bowline for the majority of rigging. It's easy to tie (once you learn it), it's easy to untie, it's adjustable on the limb. I'll switch to a Marl if I don't have anything for the knot to catch on (branch/stub/etc.). I've also tied a cross between the running bowline...

I don't think you're dumb. The dumb ones are out there trying to figure this stuff out all by themselves. You're at least on here wanting to learn. That's pretty big. http://www.netknots.com/html/running_bowline.html Another site that might help. I hate to beat a dead horse for you...

I'm not sure if this will help, but: I think you might be expecting the wrong part of the knot to tighten up. The loop created by a regular bowline will not and should not tighten up when force is put on it. A running bowline, on the other hand, is a choker style knot. If you keep that...

I bought a 51 about twelve years ago. I still have it, and use it pretty regularly. It's a decent enough saw for "smaller" stuff. Good limbing and bucking saw. I have an 18" bar on it, and it runs just fine. I believe it's 51cc's. Takes a 16" or an 18" bar. Like I said, it's a good saw...

I agree with the notion of contacting a lawyer to help decide if this fee applies to tree care in PA. I was speaking on behalf of how I was instructed to interpret it by the state staff. Once again, a lawyer would be who I'd go to for a final answer. If I were still doing commercial tree care...

Not true!! I was assured by the Attorney General's staff that Landscapers and Tree Companies do need to be licensed as they are doing improvements to the property. Here's the link to the law: http://www.attorneygeneral.gov/uploadedFiles/Consumers/HIC/Act_132_Home_Improvement.pdf Page 2...

Alright, nobody answered you in where the 3 errors may have been, so let me give it a go: 1. Use another lanyard, loop runner, or the tail of your climbing line and tie in on the other side of that limb to always maintain at least two points of attachment. That would have helped maintain...

Throwing my hat in the ring Hey, I live in Eastern PA, which I know would be far for some and close for others, but I live on 96 acre non-profit, youth camp. There are plenty of trees to tackle, and we could use the help. I can make sure the camp is booked for a GTG so that there would not be...

That's true, but I have never had a problem breaking an anchor hitch while still on the carabiner. So, I was just wondering. Thanks.

Do you have any issues breaking the knot when you're untying? That's my biggest concern with the buntline vs. the anchor. I know I can easily break the anchor hitch. Thoughts?

Just a quick sidenote, we should all receive a commission. I've personally recommended that book on here a bunch of times, and I know a ton of others on here have recommended it as the 'go to book' for anybody just starting out climbing. Makes me wonder how many copies have been sold from us...

OutofMyTree: I am very curious as to how you have the cordage tied 'inside' of the pulley. How does is it work? Better yet, does it work?

:agree2: I read that statement in TCC a long time ago, and I think it's in there for the simple fact of keeping the new guys from trying it before they're ready. While I still might go back to that book from time to time, it's the guys who are just learning 'the ropes' that predominantly...

Oh, yeah, and welcome to the site!

Anchor hitch for me. It's fairly compact and doesn't require a lot of rope. I prefer the spliced eye, but I also like to rotate the working end of the rope (to more evenly distribute the wear) and I only have one end spliced.

Agreed, I was making more of a joke/observation. I personally would rather do all my removals without spikes if I could. Since I can't, I use them regularly. If I know that I can cut everything down to a manageable spar, then I'll go without them. Sorry about the thread hijack, but I just...

Yet another reason to not use spikes on trees. Climb on rope, it's safer!! :sword:

I don't have an Iphone, but I know that there is an app to assist in tree ID. I know nothing else about it. I think it would be cool to take a close up picture of a leaf and have it just tell you: "Acer rubrum; slightly chlorotic" That would also make anybody with the phone as 'tree...