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I'll have to check my spark color, I've got a 394xp that does the same thing.

I remember he said something about them a while back, but I just kept choking the pick and setting the sling in the hook. I didn't feel the need to add them (spend the money) for the little crane work I do, but now that looks like a piss poor excuse.

The sling hooks in the vid made all the difference. I like the emphasis on production and speed with the comfort of no spikes. That's a job a guy could do day in and day out and get a big head about after a while. What's not to like?

Yeah, like the new guy say's, the pole saw is the tip ticket. A bull clip works too. That and when it looks like it's just too much work, just make bigger cuts and move on, lol. What up old man? Good to see you prowling.

I'll take a 201 once they get the performance straightened out, lighter would be nice too. Making it heavier than the 200t should be a crime.

It's a good block. I've negative rigged some big blocks that should have been on 3/4" with it and it held solid. Take it for what it's worth, but I feel I've abused it at times and it takes it.

I would buy one if they would start to get consistently good marks by those who own them. So far though, not so good. I'm still trying to string out my 200's.

Thanks for posting MD. It is a great reminder for the experienced and a great lesson for the novice. That had career ending potential for sure and your experience saved the day.

Ain't it though. I have a Spiderjack and don't use it. I like a hitch for the fact that it bends when struck.

Putting a big round up and shooting at the end grain makes a great target, really stops the lead and leaves a nice precise hole for measuring. Standing trees that get hit, they sustain some damage.

The odd thing about crossbows is they don't have the killing power and don't shoot as flat as a coumpound bow, range is no better either. The benefit is being cocked and locked at all times, which is offset by the slow follow up shot, poor manueverability and carry. That said, buy one...

I'll second that Silver Maple topping bonanza, there's just no substitute for it at times.

I have 36" full comp and full skip and I much prefer the skip. The only reason I have the full comp is because it came on the saw when I bought it, otherwise I have no use for it over 28". It's all about clearing the chips IMO.

Moving smoothly from cut to cut is where I make up my time, but when in the cut I let the wood fibers reaction to my cutting movements dictate my speed. When I was younger it was all about speed, which led to many small errors, cut off hinge, mis gunned drops, failure to make perfectly clean...

I have no desire to put a clock on my cuts, I'm talking about popping off a large horizontal limb here. You know, answering the question you asked. Oh I see, you are making the 23 seconds a prerequisite to the cut method. In that case I still wouldn't clock it and just use the undercut with...

What is worth mentioning is 120cc pigs ability to utilize the .404 chain and pull it through stump after stump.

undercut, cut the sides in, fast backcut

There is nothing wrong with that move, the buyer guy has to take responsibility for his spending, wife or no wife. :msp_thumbup:

Never been cut with a chainsaw, cut my rope all the way through, or cut what I'm tied to. Never dropped a tree on a building or tore down power/cable lines. Those are the 5 things I base every move I make around. Done most all of the rest that I can think of, including fall out of a tree.

That metal connector will get slammed and fail at some point if using it to chunk down, and that never has a good outcome.