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Heat gun and some form of penetrating oil. WD-40 will work. If you don't have a heat gun then run the motor and try removing it while its still hot.

^ Yep for as cheap as possible usually. Because there are 5-100 more in the shed that can do the same job. Non chainsaw addicted folks are more likely to pay full to fair price, because they just don't know any better or actually really need the saw.

I'm not going to argue with you ontheroad. Lets stay on topic please.

Oh I know...... Its been a LONG time since I have been on here. I kinda got burnt out of saws and the forum drama. (even though I stayed out of it) .

But did you widen it only closest to the piston? If so it would look like this ) (. or did you straighten it out after you widened it out so it would look like this \ / . I'm not saying what you did was bad or needs to be fixed. I'm just sayin from the looks of the soot the exhaust is...

Looks like the it was opened up closest to the piston side and and not smoothed out till you get to the exhaust. Kinda like a river when you see the water swirling or calm on the back side of a bend or rock. Kinda like this ) ( vs \ /. This is allowing the soot to lay on the outer...

Has anyone ever tried to bake the coil in a oven. Give it a try. Just keep watch of it to make sure it does not start burning. I fixed a guys that I work with that way. Try it what can you loose. By the way they have to get pretty hot. I used a small toaster oven set to 450. The coil started...

Sounds like a bad coil. A air leak will not cause that.

The tester I got from HF is http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-connect-compression-tester-95187.html This one. I leave mine connected since there is mainly only one plug size for chainsaws. Just make sure not to screw it into the cylinder too tight. Its uses a oring to seal so just snug it...

I'm going with white oak. I'm sitting here on the computer eating dinner looking at one in the back of my house right now. The bark is 100% the same as the one in your pictures.

Try disconnecting the wire that goes to the kill switch and see if you get fire then.

http://www.climbingarborist.com Check this site out he has lots of videos of the different set ups and such.

It will be over $1000 especially if your going to do the big shot throw weight launcher. Probably closer to $1500-1800. That does not include rigging which is more expensive then climbing gear. Youtube is FULL of video's showing different ways of climbing. treestuff.com is a arborist site...

How much are you looking to spend?

I wonder if the tree guy will still get paid? Odds are the tree guy did not have insurance and I hope the owner had home insurance. When these things happen I wonder how the home owners insurance would handle it? Odds are the tree guy will not come back to fix his problem.

2-3mm smaller rope for friction hitch then climbing rope is what most climb with. So the 10mm should work much better. Try it in dry conditions to. You may switch to 10mm for good.

^ This is the best way for using the hitch climber with out a spliced eye. From watching the videos it is also wayyyy more versatile then the standard HC too. Here is what I'm talking about. http://www.climbingarborist.com/orig.html

^ And that I did rick, although I did get a little cut up. Hanging upside down was the highlight of the climb! Now if only I can get more free time to climb more. Nemus, va sawyers shop is only 10-12 min from my house so it works out pretty good. My only problem is free time.

Keep us updated. Make SURE you put the kit in just like the old one came out. If not it will give you problems.

Hehehehe there was a few of us that got the stickers......myself included. Got one on my 288 from the original poster.