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I runs some P41s in hard and dead desert oak. A 20-24 inch bar buried in a 20 inch hardwood log is about all they'll do, even with the torque of a Pioneer. If your wood was clean and green with a really sharp chain it may do a little better but I think you'd be pushing the saw pretty hard to...

3M makes a fuel resistant epoxy that I've used before but don't remember exactly what it was. I see that JB Weld makes a fuel resistant blend too but don't know that it's ok for plastic or not. I have some reed blocks on my to do list that could use fixing before going back on a saw. Let us...

Thanks for sharing that video. I miss milling even if it is slow back breaking work. I need to make some time to do that soon. Nice haul of boards you got out of that tree and the 62 looks like it's running great.

If you're looking for a carb for the Farmsaw you were working on, the SDC 80 would probably be overkill. I think the other ones you mentioned probably won't work because they were on different saws with different linkage setups, etc.

Yeah the Pioneer 450 is an older saw for sure. Mine is actually a Poulan Pro 455 which is a Pioneer design . I'm pretty sure the 750 will cut about anything you bury the bar into. From the videos I've seen of those things , they're impressive old saws and I hope you enjoy it.

I'm doing well and I hope you are too. I'd love to see that big saw running in a milling cut. Please get some video and share it.

I'm not bragging because other than sharpening the chain and tuning the carb, I don't have squat to do with how great this 455 runs. I'm not even the one running it here as I let the experienced guy do that. But I don't see many videos on here of these old Pioneer saws running. We talk about...

Acornhill here on Arboristsite used to have quite a few NOS Pioneer parts that he was selling. Great guy to deal with. You can probably send him a private message and see what he has. Pretty sure you will be fine with a squish of about. 020 on that saw. But, using a stock base gasket will...

When I saw the wide flat spot on the outside of the cylinder opposite the exhaust port I remembered that the 655BP has the same configuration. I believe it was beefed up to accommodate the extra port. Seeing the inside of the cylinder confirmed it. I think I saw somewhere that the Gilardoni...

Here's some pics of the P52 cylinder.

Thank you for all of the Pioneer history, thats very interesting info. I think most folks into saws like and respect the Pioneer design and the performance and it's too bad they weren't able to stay in business. I'm looking forward to running this 52 with the boost port, i just need to make...

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and great to see you're back on AS. I've been looking and I still haven't located anything that shows the windowed piston for the 52. Im hoping one of the Guru's on here has a definitive answer. I'm also thinking that someone with the right tools and skills...

I have a question reference the P52 cylinders. Like Svlmustang, I was lucky enough to recently get my hands on a NOS P52 cylinder with the boost port. I've been doing quite a bit of reading and can't determine if there was ever a BP style "windowed" style piston for the 52 BP cylinder like...

Are you looking to sell one or more or just rubbing it it that you stumbled on good stuff you didnt know you had?

I believe Lou was referring to the Master Sergeant rank he achieved while in the military. I believe he might have even learned a thing or two about mechanical things while there Thanks for your service Lou!

A few years ago I was lucky enough to find a NOS P51 ignition and the twin to it that goes to the Homlite 410. Both, and I'm assuming because of their age, had weak spark. Baking them in the oven cured the issue. So yes, paying $150 for NOS might lead to fixing the NOS one like you would an...

The original ignitions are very hard to find now. Baking the old ones has worked for some, too bad you didn't get better results. I tried to get a Husky ignition to work but never could figure it out. I still have the parts and may try again one day. Not sure if any of the regular folks on...

If you call Boysen, they will most likely still have those in stock. Not 100% positive but I thought the part number was 801.

The reed blocks are a pain. Most get cracks around the threaded inserts. I have bought some NOS ones still in the original package that had cracks. Most of the time the small cracks don't cause an air leak though. I've had mixed results on the reed blocks sealing up. Its probably best to use...

I'd bet Acornhill on this site probably has some. Great guy to deal with too.