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we heated all last winter with strictly pine, some popular burned 10 cord from december 1st to april 1st 3500sq ft, DHW, floor heat in the garage and porch, also heats my clothes dryer for laundry and made my own wall mounted-time delay hands dryer for the bathroom. i was given dibs on the...

finally got around and plumbed it up and cycled it a few times. it seeps, but nothing like it did before. i did the same patch job with my 4" bore cheap tie-rod cylinder, and it seeped more then this one at first, and finally stopped after a few cord. This 6" seeps less, and i've only ran it...

200 to 0 isn't a huge range... starting an ice cold engine, that's 0 degrees, with fuel igniting around 1100*, that's a huge difference. Seems like heads and cylinder walls around the water jacket would crack right?

probably using pollution to cover up the fact they're hand in hand with the gas companies for those townships....

lets get deep. http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/o6044.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxalic_acid

if it's not locked push and hold the set button for 8 seconds to get into program parms... i fiddled with mine all the time. you need to change r0, r1 and r2 might need to be changed if the factory has them too high/low. i did 20deg for the summer, quicker to recover with no heat demand. but...

still don't have the answers. i think veg breaks down with heat. still searching. esters, alcohols and glycerine.

this post was not meant to be "OFFENDING" in any way or form. This is a wood burning and equipment related site. No one here mentioned they were chemists, so i began my hunt on google. You know who you are.

I can see the reasoning. For certian situations low flow is the answer, espeically with 'push the go button and let it continue un-attended' setups; as the one your explaining. Personally i can't find myself to spend the money to buy small hose, the fittings, then take my time, just to slow my...

hydraulic valve with a lever for flow control. all front end loaders are setu pthe same way. just move the valve a ltitle bit and you can fine tune cylinder positions (lift the arms a fraction of an inch, etc etc) people that use 1/4" hose to cheat is beacuse they just wham the spool full...

if you used a decent quality spool, it wouldn't matter how fast the pump moved oil, you could just ease the spool and get the job done...cylinder anchor points will change the outcome alot as well.

with water it wouldn't matter. with vegetable oil, it's not an environmental hazard.. either situation, it could pump to a reservoir...

low pressure relief valve. maybe 5psi?

check out that link i posted.

as i said, just an idea. probably use a hydraulic pump, only thing i can think of to move anything of that temp....only limit is seals. maybe a vickers vane that moves slow.... i mentioned logstor because someone mentioned if using pex hose clamps must be used. I said my current 'water' OWB...

bah, it wouldn't explode. last weekend i experimented and threw in a gallon of oil and it just smoldered and burned. Threw in a qt jug that had a bit of gasoline in it, closed the door, nothing happened... hours later opened the door, jug is burned up, wood is ashes,,,,no explosion...

ugh. again. steel pipe, steel couplers, steel elbows, steel unions. steel. Insulated with fiberglass.

for sure, my winch i gotta be dead straight on the pull, and ususally tugs the tractor around, sometimes i quick chain up to a tree to keep steady until the hard winching is done.

I just went hog wild with a torch. Didn't even bother to use a grinder. Took some 1" thick stock, torched some 'wedge angles', welded together for a 6way. . Just a wood splitter. 6" bore pushes anything through it.

for a while me and brother did the 2 man winch.... chain after chain after chain after chain..............after chain. go 10 ft forward, back up, take out the slack, ahead 10ft, back up, take out slack. ahead 10 ft, back up, take out 1 chain. haha, it sucked. finally found a PTO winch...man...