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Fantastic stuff Mark. I just started messing with 3D printing, and designing things in Fusion 360, so I can appreciate how much effort went into this!

The second graph was just an attempt to get at what might be a more important difference, which is how well they hold an edge (although the geometry of the factory sharpening would affect that as well to varying degrees). Yes, that would do it...although matching the wood to run out a tank on...

Having seen the video, I would agree that what is being tested initially is the factory sharpening, not the quality of the chain. The before and after one tank comparison might speak more to chain quality, but still would be affected by sharpening geometry. Here are the differences (absolute...

Starting fluid is a bad idea...if you can get it to pop by putting some fuel into the carb, you likely just need to take the carb apart and clean it. I use "Gum Out" choke cleaner to blow out the passages. Just make sure to screw in the adjustment screws, keeping track of the number of turns...

What is the reserve price on responding to your question?

Got the tank. Thanks!

No...I have no interest in the Chinese ones, and the price is fair. I'm just a cheap bastard. Message me the pics if you don't mind.

That's not the case at all. I can see how you might take it that way, and I'm sorry that you did. People that I recognize from years of posting, like yourself, wouldn't make me hesitate at all, and some of the members here are selling on eBay. I guess the reality is that I'm just being...

Not yet. So far I'm seeing the same prices as on eBay. I'm not saying that the prices are unfair, just that for the same price eBay is a more familiar transaction for me.

I'm trying to get my friend's dad's early model (white top Rancher) Husky 61 back in running shape. The tank is split at the seam. I have read that the aftermarket ones have throttle trigger issues, and so I am looking for a decent used one.

Probably because it wasn't the only break-in thread going at the time. There was this one too: https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-p-c-break-in-period.106155/post-1663826 And these a couple of years later if you are a glutton for punishment...

Mine had a single...it has a pair now. I got it used, but in really pristine shape, so I don't think that one was lost.

I have a hard time believing that you need substantially more oil to protect against corrosion than you do to lubricate a running saw, and a harder time believing that running the tank dry has any noticeable effect on the residual oil in the tank. I do.

I doubt very much that there isn't sufficient oil residue left behind. I have never done it, but I have heard that a saw that is accidentally straight-gassed does not seize immediately because of the residual oil. If I was going to put a saw up for a couple of years, I'd consider fogging.

Probably some water too if he was running ethanol fuel. Tell him to run it dry, so it won't need another kit... :laugh:

How long do you think it takes the fuel in a diaphragm carb to evaporate? The only difference between running it dry and letting it evaporate is what gets left behind.

I used it for the first time when I had some water in the fuel...it cleaned it right up and I have been using it ever since. I don't think that it has the magical properties that some claim, but it does help with water in the fuel, which is an issue with high humidity and ethanol.

I run ethanol fuel in everything (with SeaFoam), and haven't had any issues. I run everything dry when I'm done with it, and have gotten a lot of free equipment, and gotten a lot of engines running for folks that don't.

Take a peek at the RA... I have heard the less nefarious rumor that engineers from Pioneer actually worked with Stihl on the Contra design.

That's a little funny, given that Stihl's big break was their "Pioneering" design on the Contra/Lightning...