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I use this from Easy-Pour and screw on their high capacity flexible spouts on the jerry cans for my forced air kerosene heater fuel; I also have the no-spill cans. I really like the no-spill cans better. Also, I add a small capped vent on the old jerry cans.

Got it...wasn't familiar with the term, but I did use some spray-on color working in a college research equipment shop many years ago. Thanks for the teaching!

ok--what's guy coating?

Ok...please describe lapping and guy-coating it. Never tried that, not familiar with it...but thanks for offering a solution!

I also pressure tested the cylinder at TDC without the intake/exhaust blocked off, just to see if there was any resistance at all. Could send a pic, but the ring was bound up with aluminum transfer and wasn't sealing at all.

I DID check the crankcase, no leaks--crank seals good.

I am in need of a flywheel for a 1995 Husqvarna 262xp, serial number may be #5080127 (number on the nameplate). I think the part number is 503529401. The key is sheared on mine. Thanks for any help.

Well, the piston and ring was TOAST. New piston/cylinder, compression went from 80 to 140. Did a pressure/vacuum test on the old cylinder/piston; wouldn't hold any at all. Runs very well now.

Well, the piston and ring was TOAST. New piston/cylinder, compression went from 80 to 140. Did a pressure/vacuum test on the old cylinder/piston; wouldn't hold any at all. Runs very well now.

Got a little more info from the owner's son...Dad is a wood cutter, worked for a ROW clearing company. He said he "thought it was losing compression". When I got it the tank was dry, clearly hadn't been used for some time. The backward piston came to me that way. I will pressure/vac test...

Photos from the exhaust--first image you can see the ring; second is the piston wall, third is the back of the cylinder

I'm at a loss. Saw won't fire AT ALL. Here's the rundown: cleaned the carburetor, set to factory one turn on hi and lo. New fuel line. Checked flywheel key alignment. New spark plug. Disconnected the coil kill wire to test for a grounded coil. Tested for spark--ok. Tested plug--ok. added fuel...

I can't be bought, but I can be had. You might take me by the hand, or the nose, and lead me somewhere, but I can't be pushed anywhere and I don't take that pushy crap from anybody, car dealers especially. I ain't there for the propaganda. That stuff makes me furious.

I've used the UC for some time now, and I like the results. But since reading this thread, I think I will trade out my Simple Green for something else. The longest I leave a carb in it is 24 minutes--three cycles of 8 minutes each, then flush with hot water and keep the air compressor away...

Saw something today I hadn't seen before. Worked on a friend's Stihl KM unit, cleaned the carb with the ultrasonic cleaner, but his worst problem was a stopped-up spark arrestor screen. Brought it back today saying gas was coming out the muffler and it ran terrible. I suspected the metering...

It will do this now, with a different reed valve. I don't have to pour gas in the carb to get it to do that, but it won't stay running.

With the choke on, it will fire, run for maybe 2-3 seconds, then die, so I didn't hit the throttle before it died.

Then I'd say the evidence suggests that the reed valve is working. Now I suspect the diaphragm...

The diaphragms seem pliable; I can swap those out and see if that makes a difference.