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The primer is not needed. In fact i read that the codes eliminated the need for primer on plumbing pipes this last go around. If they don't require it, why would you bother for electric conduit. BTW It may not matter for the dog you have now, but dogs live a much shorter life than we do. You...

I bought an early 362 in '09 and still use it. It is solid. Starts, runs, cuts. I am a bit of a power junky though, and have a similarly outfitted 660 to compare with. 20" bars on both. It is a silly comparison. The 660 pulls through stuff like crazy where I have to watch and make sure...

No, mine is just "lazy". You need to nudge it back. Sure sometimes it gets jammed from crap or a split that goes wrong, but that isn't the primary problem.

I have the not wanting to return problem too. Not as much run through it, but it doesn't want to return on it's own very well. I have not done anything much to improve it other than scraping the I-beam clean. Will be interested to hear your solution.

Steve, I didn't realize you were that far South - I thought you were up closer to Superior. Bummer about the little boy who died from the snowplow earlier after the storm in your town. Really sad to hear about that.

Only issue I have run into is that the return seems to be getting sticky. You need to bump it back so it fully returns now. Cleaning/scraping the beam doesn't seem to help much. I've thought about increasing the return springs or something but haven't bothered to mess with it yet.

Nice setup with the receiver. Pretty simple. I just didn't want to weld on the SS itself, as my welding skills were super bad way back then. I think I'm up to just "moderately poor" now... So I just pinned the bar to the existing holes under the table.

I have the Ryobi 10532. WHW - I see your logic, but frankly it was never that great of a saw from the beginning. I don't think it is anything superior, so therefore it is a "cheap saw" to me. It has always been hard starting and running when cold, and then difficult to restart when warm...

I'm not real crazy about throwing parts at a cheap saw in hopes of fixing it... Parts will cost more than the saw did...

Interesting to see this revived. I have become disenchanted with mine. It is hard to start and keep running until warmed up, then it does OK for a while. Then if you turn if off and let it sit for a bit it is basically impossible to restart. I have tried all sorts of tuning variations with...

Bowlines seemed to work well. Only had a couple that we ended up having to pull. Thanks!

Yeah I think I'm getting it. I've practiced a bunch of running bowlines and regular bowlines. I can see when it looks right or not after a few of them...Thanks, guys.

Cool. Thanks. I was guessing bowline was the one, but figured someone here would know for sure. So what defines "tie them well?" What's the difference between a good and bad one?

I figure this is the easiest place to ask.... I got some good 1/2" polyester winch line from Baileys and need to pull a few trees against their natural lean this weekend. Nothing critical as there are no buildings, I just don't want them to hang up and damage other good trees when I have a...

cool - thanks!

Cool. Slick for the right sized rounds. This reminds me of something that I've mentioned in the past - do you have pics of how the lever is setup with your pull forward vs up? You also mentioned something in the video about a cam follower you added. What's that about? I'd be curious to...

I've seen a number of these but you have a nice variation on the usual receiver on a plate. What do you use the hooks for? Enquiring minds.

No photo to show, but here is a sketch of what I mean: Sure you can mill the Red spacer block to an exact fit, but shims are easier, and can help accommodate some slight variation in the beam thickness. And brass slides easier on steel. The Supersplit uses brass as a wear plate also, for...

1grnlwn - Some advice on machine design principles here. Make the spacer plate slightly thicker than the beam top flange/web. Then make up the difference with brass shims. They will slide better on steel and wear instead of wearing the beam, so you can replace them. Then you can tighten down...

If you have the volume to run through it (and from what I recall from your postings, that isn't a problem...) then it will pay itself off in a year or two at most. Faster speed, much lower gas consumption... Your problem will become the one all high-speed equipment has - it is hard to get...