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I bought my autocycle valve from Cylinder Services. That was also a pleasant buying experience.

I'd give them a call. When I wanted to rebuild my splitter I got a hold of a very knowledgeable gal that hooked me right up. You might have been chatting with the wrong person.

So it's struggling to reach temp and it maintains perfectly. That's 2 opposite things. And high winds will be more likely to overheat the boiler. Did you say that you had seasoned wood? I can't remember.

That sounds like your heat is going somewhere.

Here's another idea I've toyed with. If you still find you need more flow through the boiler for circulation reasons, could you take the old pump and connect to your extra in and outlets, assuming you have them, and just have it run when your boiler is calling for heat? And I have bolted...

Maple did mention air in the system. Does your hx have a way to vent? I had air in mine until I replumbed it and added a vent.

Why the big differential on the wood boiler? Is that what they recommend?

Hard to believe there is 130' of melted snow and you are only losing 2 degrees.

Sounds ok.

If you have supply and return ducts in the areas you want to move heat too, it should not be a big deal to cut in some grills with dampers and use the furnace fan to circulate. Don't you have a tinknocker buddy somewhere that could take a look?

As long as you will have to dig a new trench anyways, could you relocate the boiler so you are not crossing driveways and maybe get it closer to save pipe?

It's called an autocycle valve and I put one on my splitter years ago. You can use 1 handle like a typical setup or use both handles to make it autocycle. I am glad I did it.

Make sure to get some sand for backfilling. One sharp rock and you are back in the same boat.

Cutting in some tees and valves either side of the hx is a good idea for a couple reasons. Cleaning is one, bleeding air out is the other. Depending on how it's installed, you may have some air in it.

Yep. $30 or so at HF or LOWES will get an infrared thermometer. Mine gets used all the time.

About 5 ton of dead standing wood I cut last winter. Throwing into the boiler is the only time I actually put gloves on the wood. I probably will split a few chunks along the way cause I want to. There were a few equipment steps along the way, but I didn't touch it.

I'd like to know more about the heat exchanger in the basement. If it is connected to the ductwork maybe by design there is always some air movement to distribute fresh air around the house. If so back to the bypass valve.

They do make control valves that do this and it probably would solve the issue.

I'm prepared. My fuel tanks are full so if it blows I'll flip a switch and worry about it then. Fuel oil is so cheap this year I plan on using it to supplement the wood anyways.

I repaired my boilers on the outside of the water jacket leaks with some stainless embedded epoxy. They were at the bottom . Its been running for over a month now with no problems. You should be good for the winter.