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I owned this one for a while when I gained interest in Echo. Primarily as a shelf queen but was very impressed with how smooth it idled. The only saw I ever owned that would not "walk off" while idling on a hard surface. The saw was in good shape, ran well and a guy made me an offer that was...

Plastic head hammer for the same reason you use brass. Even with a puller, you need to rap it with a hammer most of the time anyway.

If you follow that schedule, you will have some of the best maintained saws out there. I know its somewhat different for you as you are in the fire-fighting business, but IMHO, thats a good plan.

Do you use the opposite side of the washer to apply upward force on the side of the seal you have the screwdriver under?

Prob worth $200 but the coils may be pricey.

The jaws will push in next to the crankshaft under the rubber. You will then spread the jaws with the thumbscrew to spread the jaws out to catch the metal lip on the outside of the seal. Turn the center screw and the bolt will pull the puller up and bring the seal with it. Dont be surprised if...

I have had a small ball from a decomp button do damage that looked very similar. I just could not figure out how it dropped onto the top of the piston.

Unless that saw is really trashed...its certainly worth the repair.

If you do not have any experience with this procedure: 1) Go to the "beg for manuals" thread in the "stickies" section and ask for the Shop Manual and illustrated parts list for your saw. 2) Search this forum for piston replacement threads and do some reading. 3) This can be done with normal...

Looks like the piston is scored and melted aluminum has been transfered from the piston to the cylinder walls. As the saw cooled down from running, the cylinder shrank and seized up. You will need (at a minimum) to pull the cylinder, see if you can removed the transfered aluminum, and replace...

Brad, I have read there were stiffer AV springs avail to take the slop out of the 270. I tore one boot on a stock 270 at mild firewood duty. They may have stiffened the springs on the 271. Actually a very pleasant saw to run.

These saws have a very sloppy A/V system and tend to tear the intake boots. Its a comfortable saw to run but you sure have to watch them closely.

I owned one for a while, did a few minor repairs and a lot of cleaning. paid $350 for it. It went for $1100 on flea-bay. The only saw I have ever owned that stayed in one place while idling. very smooth running saw. You will note the dual coils.

Alex...that is a great action plan for repairing that saw....:numberone:

I have never picked up a 550P. I do find it strange that the 450P is light, nimble and a joy to use and adding 10cc has made it something no one wants.;)

I made all the screw for my build. Bought the right size(bag of 100) cap screws , then cut to size and bevel the ends. Cost of OEM screws is absurd. I did use oem on the cylinder bolts.

Good deal!

+1 on the Lisle puller....jaws are too big. I have even had the the Stihl puller completely pull the inside lip on the fw seal. Sometimes they are stubborn. I use a heat gun on the case w/ care.

On mine the cable sleeve had just slipped out of the slot on the trigger. Simple matter of removing the handle, slipping the cable sleeve back into its slot and re-assemble.

I would like to "piggyback" a somewhat different but related question please. I am rebuilding a basket 372 saw. The handle was on the case. When I rebuilt the intake assembly, I do not have any (or very little)throttle cable movement when the trigger is pulled. I believe the end of the throttle...