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Most handheld equipment has rather limited ignition capability, especially compared to automotive. Talking about max possible secondary voltage. Especially true of antiquated breaker-points magnetos. Bottom line: plug gap's gotta be kept tight, for spark to cross it, under compression. Best try...

I've found that few chains, as spun off the reel, don't benefit from filing up front. Some much more than others. And ... for milling notably more so than for crosscutting. You just can't get the cutters too sharp. Wussy depth gauges don't help either, disposing the chain to spit dustier stuff...

One little typo there? Should read sprocketS. Chain pitch must match that of both sprockets. If not, you'll likely know about it real quick.

About the mantles, you have to be really slow-moving & gentle with the lamps in general. A lamp that'll be used only as a heater willl have a mantle-holder, that's lost its mantle for whatever reason, installed. A side-benefit of that: if there's no mantle, it can't possibly get sooted up and...

I always keep a few gallons of kerosene handy, for any of a fistful of Aladdin mantle lamps. Typically ~3500 BTU/hr each, and about 24 hrs on a fillup. Totally odorless. Move a/r to whatever room desired. Takes the sting out of oil consumption. Lets me avoid firing up genset(s) for most power...

Best preventative I've found is to get the slabs stickered & stacked ASAP, to get the surface MC on the way down, at least. On some sugar maple recently, initial drying conditions weren't great. Some of the faces got fuzzy with fungi. Really fuzzy. I ran them through a planer for a couple...

Not even close, IME. BL has only a couple of rings of sapwood, with all else heart. Hoadley characterizes BL heart as having "abundant tyloses", so all the vessels are tightly closed off to moisture, fungi etc. I've scavenged logs downed 50+ yrs back, that air-dried to excellent fuelwood, some...

That's likely the tool I'm using. Maybe mine's from a bad batch, not enough carbon in the alloy or improperly heat-treated. Use it on a few 32" loops and it's easy to see how the flat has dug into it. (The flat file in that kit is a keeper.) You seldom have to do that on a given chain of course...

That saw is "interestingly" designed. Bar studs thread into plastic chassis. Not for me, thanks. Best put an eyeball on it often, if you're planning on keeping it.

Me too. I keep a tool bag ready with light winching kit- nylon slings & straps. Often I have to haul that stuff some distance from a road, and a bunch of chains get real heavy, real quick. And ... you don't have to pull directly in line with the hinge. Within ~20 deg works fine.

I seem to remember doing that once, back when. Learned instantly that I shouldn't repeat it. A 6" flat file in Granberg "File-N-Joint" can be used to file them down to the depth you want. (Generally .025-.040" for me.) The big challenge is just how far to take them down, then how to optimally...

I've found it to help with break-in of a new saw, if I: 1. Run it hard in cuts strictly @WOT, after maybe 15-30 sec fast-idle warmup. 2. Every few minutes of that, let it idle for mebbe 30 seconds, for a wee cool-down. 3. When finished cutting, give it ~30 sec @idle again. Good procedure also...

Maybe I was lucky back in the day, when I heard about friend's encounter with dealer who ground his chains. Took off big chunks of chain. I've found that: 1. It's way better to keep a chain sharp than play catch-up. (And I mean REALLY sharp, from guided filing.) 2. Cutter length consistency is...

Still on the steep part of the learning curve here. Been using WoodlandPro 30RP, 30SC and 30SCS for milling hickory and sugar maple. Slabbing saw is a 576XP-AT with 32" bar in 30" Granberg mill. All these chains are semi-chisel, making for a decent surface finish. They all work well. Could only...

Trust me on this. You'll love it. Some mfgs make/market little else than "pro" equipment. Thinking specifically of Dolmar/Makita. Their prices are at the homeowner level. For your purposes, two Dolmars would make a great combo: 6100 (61 cc) w/20" and 410 (41 cc) w/16". Both are serious saws, and...

Good source of supply for Oregon stuff: Frawley's in New Albin IA, www dot loggerchain dot com. Good prices, fast and reasonable shipping. I've had good results so far with Bailey's WoodlandPro ripping chain- 30RP. Needs sharpening before use. Survives metal-detection well. Good price, same as...

Look up "reaction wood", what grows on the tension side of deciduous trees. Typically it presents many sorts of problems. The only such log I've tried to mill, black locust, split many ways before I could even finish. Firewood. Taught me to stick to logs that grew upright. YMWV. BL is great...

I've found it simplest with mix ratios to feed all my 2-strokes 89 octane e-10 with one of the best full-syn mix oils at 50:1. That's blower, polesaw, brushcutters and saws from 30 to 74 ccs. Not a problem- they're all happy, and the air quality is noticeably better than with more oil. Some of...

I've a Dolmar 6100 (worked hard, minimal chamber deposits) which sends my compression gauges' needles to 215 psi, so your indication of 210 psi would seem to be workable, and likely would also lead to serious power output. I find that to start that Dolly first thing of a winter morn, I have to...

There are all sorts of ripping chain available. Some, like WoodsmanPro 30RP are full-comp. I've found that in ~30" hickory, their 30SCS (semi-chisel full-skip) chain works just as well, besides being notably sharper off the reel. I still use that 30SCS with std crosscutting filing angles, just...