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Thanks for the info guys Thats what I need Edwin "a truck load of cut wood and some nice saws in my drive"

Have used Gunsons Hi Lo guages good gear,there the guys who make the glass top spark plug so you can see the inside when running

A remarkable machine over 35 years and still pulling chain like it was fresh out the box. it's running a big bar so worth checking oiler is working (Cheers for the tip)

Yes its a big old beast, looks like the 610 but the model numbers different thought that cant be just for that machine got to be others that fit it

Hi Guys Looking for oil filler cap for Timber Bear Mod 60013414 Ser 11-051917 any idea where I might find one (UK) if pos, I found a pdf for 610/650 part no 216052 oil cap but I don't know if its compatable or not??? any thoughts

to do it properly is about the same price of a new one (saw that is!), once the chrome has worn in the jug its a bye bye job, every time you here talk of this its $200 for re-bore+chrome + new piston n rings +every thing else crank seals bearings carb kit etc etc etc, get a good saw for $300 if...

if the jug is as bad as you say piston or rings will do nothing, You might be better getting hold of a none runner with good compression, make a good one out of the two and sell the remaining for parts

Ahh about 100psi below usable

there are always some wear marks as long as there not deep groves, i would look for a fuel problem first, thats concurrent with the way is stopped and a dry plug, you would know if its compression, pulls over like theres nothing there (Dolmar's hang form the pull cord) compression stops them...

SD116 and it was running great. All of a sudden it quit. It just throttled down and died. It would not Today I: I mixed fresh 50:1 fuel. Pulled plug - it was not fouled and looked dry. I am getting spark (see below) Air filter is brand new Put it back together and tried to start...

well built machine, I had no problem with disassembly, oil pump was easy to get off, cant say about the crank seal if that's the one? might require splitting the crank case! now thats a whole different ball game.

Probably the best test is cut some wood with it. if it starts runs and cuts wood then the rest is all a bit academic. happy logging!!!

Hi there and welcome to A.S.C generally the pressure release is used to make priming a little easier. on my Dolmar it go's: switch on, choke full, press CR and pull a couple of times till it fires and resets the CR, now choke off and engage throttle lock, one good pull should get it...

unusual to have same fault on two saws, hmmm check for heat in bar, tip and clutch? well sharpened chain? chain set to tight? tuning up when hot? tank breather? could be all or non of the above!!! best of luck with that one!

8T for short bar 7T for long

Dolmar make good quality tools, the 100 is small light and for it's size plenty powerful enough for jobbing work clearing and copsing should do you well. I would recommend a good clean and a full service.

Yes like I said "worth diagnosing properly before you throw loads of cash at it" be a bummer if it was blocked vent! and you just spent $35 on a coil you didn't need! and the time it takes to fit and set up only to find it's not that!

Yes agree, but most of us give um that before we give up! and try different throttle settings too.. good point for novice though... I found a timing light good to check out ignition faults, you can see it brake down wile running the saw! if you got or can borrow one?? not sure about the...

The coil ignition module can cause this but very expensive, also the air vent, so worth diagnosing properly before you throw loads of cash at it. next time it fails take out the spark plug, if it's dry suspect air vent if wet electrics, I have had an HT lead cause this too! but you need to...

"look mum no hands"owch