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After tapping the pump back down to where it should be, worm gear freed up and slid off easy. Must have been trapped against the crank shaft by the body of the pump

Thanks. So looking at the diagram in the manual, the pump pinion looks like it should be level with the crankshaft. So this one was way too high. don't think that the saw has been messed with, so does it sound feasible that the pump has been pulled through further as the worm gear got messed up?

Does the pump look to high?

Yep, it definitely is. Any suggestions? I'm thinking careful application of a dremmel and a diamond burr to split the bush?

Yeah, I thought so. Well this one is either done sliding or the mangled plastic is sticking it in place somehow.

Hi All, Long time no visit. Life moves on and most of my spare time is now with the grand kids :-) so I don't do too much fixing of chainsaws anymore and am a little rusty on the subject. I have an MS 211 that a friend has asked me to have a look at that stopped oiling. The worm gear is...

Well you certainly got some useful (and current) info from digging this old one back up, but you had me scratching my head when the PMs started coming in lol!

That's a hell of a jump.

That would be a 'Crushedvarna'

I rebuilt this fairly lightly used one a couple years ago and it had the same problem. I replace it with a new hose and wiped a bit of sealant into the area of the grommet on the tank (Dirko I think) and then left it to cure for a few days before refilling. That seemed to solve it. I sold this...

Hi Matt, If you can't register anything +/- you've probably not got something sealed up as well as it should be. I know it sounds straightforward but I can have lots of fun just getting the sealing strip to sit properly behind the exhaust on some saws, so start by checking anything you've done...

Okay, point taken, but I've seen the price of these things from Stihl and personally I'd be happy to play around a bit before biting the bullet.

So try a different glue, if we were talking about retiling the nose on a space shuttle that'd be one thing, but this definitely isn't rocket science.

Just out of interest, I priced the 9503 003 0320 (16002) for a Stihl OEM and a generic. Don't know about where you are, but I can get a SKF, NSK or FAG for half the price of the Stihl supplied one.

Good to know, thanks

Okay, so is that one OEM only then, but the flywheel side is generic?

Are both sides generic then? I've rebuilt quite a few 024/026 but never actually had need to replace bearings on them.

I've said it elsewhere already today, just buy foil duct tape and cut your own to suit.

Cheap alternative: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151-ADHESIVE-ALUMINIUM-FOIL-TAPE-PIPES-REPAIRS-48MM-X-10M-TT1015-/321752953923?hash=item4ae9f87443:g:a7wAAOSwqu9VUao3

If I understand what you're saying, you think that there should be foil on the tank, but you don't think there is? Either my eyes are deceiving me or you need to get clearing more of the crap off that saw!:D Like Deets says, it tends to come loose (a combination of oil and saw dust) and either...