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Don't want to hijack my own thread getting into Usa vs China made. The real story here is this choke on my saw and apparently lots of others have been set incorrectly at the factory. Their QC failed. I guess the real point is the Stihl company failed to supervise their own workers, regardless...

Sawyer was exactly right. The factory setting on the choke left it slightly open when closed. I tweaked the linkage and got it to close. Starts perfect. It's odd to me that Stihls quality checks did not catch this. These saws are made in Va Beach, Va, and you would think they could do better.

Forrester says the bar is right. With 81 links the chain is right. Poster, irHunter is very close to the answer. When I first pulled off the two nuts securing the bar, out came an unusual mass of wood chips which looked as if they were welded together in a hard, large mass. It seems that upon...

It appears the black throttle plastic tab will move above or below the throttle linkage on its own depending on the throttle and choke settings. However if you depress the throttle and then set the choke, the tab will move to the front side. Either way, this choke, with either throttle/tab...

Will try it the other way!

Forrester contacted! Tks. If the earlier poster is right, that 81 drag links means that it is. 325 then perhaps I have the answer, but we'll see what they say.

Spocket says Sproc U. 1125/08, A 325, z8 Guessing thats 325 chain. Stihl dealer says the std pitch for a ms 290 from the factory is 063 with 81 drag links on a 20" bar. Question is, this saw has a Forrester bar on it with the following numbers: s20 63 81 e11 Stihl dealer says 290s come...

The Stihl manual for the 290 lists .325, 3/8 and 404, whatever 404 is? Curious what comes standard on this saw. Ive read on arborsite that if you switch chain pitch, you have to change sprockets. Really? Is there a way to tell what pitch your sprocket is?

Ok, I'm not a pro so can you help me out? Can you run either or is there something on the standard sprocket which tells you?

Here we go. Pic of the carb with choke mostly closed as far as it could pic#3, and linkage before tweaking pic #1, and what looked like a gasket behind carb. (note: with carb nuts removed the carb will shift forward slightly and open the choke 1/4" on its own pic#2, but that is not the problem)...

Op here. I'm 200 mi from my saw for a week, so Ill post pics in a week upon return. I didn't try to manually close the factory choke, or on the replacement carb i fitted in place, but didn't leave in place because they both looked the same, but can try both soon enough. I wasn't referring...

Are we really saying that Stihl quality is off that much and this problem is often seen?

There's the factory gasket between the carb and the cylinder. That's all I see.

I think we know the answer to your suggestion. That will work. My dilemma is how I am going to bend the factory linkage enough to close the choke, as right now it misses fully closing by 1/4" or so. Said another way, it seems hard to believe that unused factory parts could be that far off...

The horizontl control lever is snapped down hard into the open clip thats part of the chassis. I don't believe my linkage is bent or worn. Im pretty sure it came this way from the factory. Although only used a few times, it's past warranty.

Thanks Coffeebrk for the pics. Mine looks exactly like yours. The choke linkage looks likes its factory formed at about 45 degrees. Id have to bend it a lot to close the choke fully. Can you believe the first reply to my post said, "If you can't figure it out find someone who can." Gee...

Have a nearly new ms170 and yes I know you pull it until it pops then slide to half choke. Problem is that at full choke it sometimes wont pop, no matter how many pulls. And you have to assume that continued pulling likely creates flooding. Yes I have a new plug, good blue spark, clean...

Did the saw ever get repaired? Its been 5 months. You said it would run a few secs on gas introduced through the plug hole, but not on spray through the carb. While there could be an air leak, I'd replace the carb for $20-25 and expect that to fix it. With those symptoms, you have a good...

Checked screen, it's clear. Piston and rings look brand new.

Going deeper, the cold compression is about 135. Should be enough to start. As with some other posts, I can't get a pop. Pulled plug, turned it upside down and out came maybe an ounce of premix. I'll air it out overnight and try again tomorrow. Did read a post where an old guy lightly preheats...