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Hi Edward I have done this using my Rail-O-Matic milling system, I got the idea from reading an old book on Native American Indians, they used to take timber from trees without killing or felling them, they had a worked with nature policy not against it. My system is easy to errect in around...

Did you know that you can drill the centre of a roller nose sprocket, we do this on all our bars, there is sufficient centre thickness on most bars to do this, without any ill effects to the bearing, this give you another three inches of cutting width. Davy.

I have found the best bar for milling to be the Cannon superbar, you can change the tip and drive sprocket to a 325, which will give you a much faster cutting speed and a lot better finish. Davy.

Sorry I missed this posting, to get the two ends accurate to each other I have them cut whilst in a sigle length of tube and where the cut is made is where I bolt them back together afterwards. To get two rails that have already been cut, you must find a god outfit that ha a true saw to get...

Here are another couple of shots of the trolley made up, the two flat bars running along the top and bottom is where the cradle that holds the saw in place sits.

I would be concerned more than it did not have enough tackiness or is too tacky but there is a simple test for viscosity that you could use, time how long it takes for a ball bearing to fall through it and compare that to regular bar/chain oil. Cheers That's one I hadn't thought about...

The oil that has a dye in it is for the engineers incase there is a leak in the system, the engineer has a ultra violet torch which shows up a bright yellow when the light is shone onto the journals and seals and can stain things if too much hits the surface. There are vegatable based oils...

Hi Woody Yes I have tried to use wood for those side plates before, the only thing that is preventing them from working is the axles that fit through the wheels tend to press into the boards when the side pressure of the saw and trolley weight hangs down with a sideways pressure, the trolley...

Sorry to but in again guys, but where in my posting which has upset Mr Sinclair so, that using another makers CSM is going to make the planks lighter, read it again carefully, it mearly states a fact the bigger the planks are the harder it is going to be to move them, especially if your alone, I...

whoowah guys, lets try to be as civil as possible here, I'm simply trying to share my experiences, hey I don't know it all you know, but what I write is honest and what I have done over the last two decades. As Woodshop says every mill has its pro's and con's, ideas are what makes things work...

The system works best using a 36 inch bar, with at least 90cc behind things this give you a plank of around 34 inches wide. When I use the bigger bars they are usually fittedto the roller type mills I have made, see here a picture of a 60 inch unit. http://www.chainsawmills.co.uk/about.htm

I built this home made mill for myself using plans from a guy in Alaska, he worked with me over the net to get things done, you can see my design from his mills and help here, http://www.chainsawmills.co.uk/4_stroke_powered_mills.htm and his stuff here, www.alaskabandsawmills.com...

A friend of mine has an M7 which is fine if your working on a static position with lifting gear, iff your out in the woods the M7 is only good for what you can manually lift onto it with or without any ramps, so you are limited on the larger stuff that normally comes your way for nothing and...

The two 7 feet pieces make up the rail, if you have a big enough pickup truck or something like one of course use a one piece rail and in heavier box section, but that is not what I needed, I wanted something much lighter and easier to transport about, here in the UK we prefer something that's...

The next two parts are the only pieces which I have made for me, which we will deal with next posting.

On top of each riser post is a top plate, adjustment handle and rope guides in the form of two D shackles. For each top plate ake two 2 X 6 x 1/4" thick flat plates, drill a 3/8" hole in the middle, now mark off 5/8" across from either end of the plate and drill a 3/8" hole,for the D shackles...

More pictures for the Rail-O-Matic CSM

Rail-O-Matic CSM The next part is the two rail ends, or riser posts, these consist of two 50 X 50mm or 2 X 2" pieces of box section with an 3.00-1/8" wall thickness, they have a slots cut into one side for an internal riser block and two allen bolts to slide up and down, which lifts the whole...

I have thought it over and the best way for me to do things is by a picture guided assembly and make up as you go thing, its much quicker than writing out a whole set of drawings, here goes. For the rail you will need two 7 foot lengths of 2 X 4 inch box section with an 1/8" wall thickness...

There are of course other good reasons to use a winch, like physically moving away from the powerhead. Something to fiddle with in the future. Cheers This is why I made and designed my own rail mill, this does exactly what you are thinking, it gets you away from the noise and dirt 95% of...