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You damned sobs, all those pics got my CAD all flared back up. Thanks, guys.

In my experience, an 066/395-class saw becomes necessary when you're routinely burying a 32" bar in hardwood. If you have any need to regularly run a bar this size or larger, you need a bigger saw. A 100cc+ saw (3120, 084, 088/880) is helpful when pulling a LONG bar is required, say 40"+. A...

Nice. Tasteful. Might need to send a saw down to ya so I can wear the shirt without being some kinda wannabe poseur.

Pictures?

Chains and chain binders, attached fore and aft.

Pull the cylinder if you're going to do this. It's real easy to do, and it would be downright foolish to go to the effort of redoing the threads to have your saw eat shavings that you didn't properly remove.

Louder than stock what? The 460 is an 046 for all practical purposes, save for the muffler opening getting shrunk down to the size of a #2 pencil. If you are using that as your baseline for "louder than stock", I think you're looking at it wrong. Open up the outlet to ~5/8" as it used to be...

The old Aussie orange ones were great. The white ProTop ones were so-so, about on a par with Oregon PowerMatch. What happened post-China, I cannot say for sure, but I don't have to know for sure because simply knowing they're Chinese is information enough.

OK, here's my 2c: A homeowner-type saw (Stihl 290/291/310/311/390/391, Husqvarna 455/460) will probably be happy enough with a 20" bar and .325" chain. This is a versatile combination, though it isn't terribly fast, and meets the price-point desires of most non-professional, non-enthusiast...

Speed isn't the only consideration. Chip clearance and smoothness of the cut is also something to consider. In smaller stuff, brushing and pruning and small trees/fence rows, .325" is usually smoother which means safer which also means you're more productive. In bigger wood, assuming the saw...

The early 075 I owned pulled a lot harder than my 076 Super ever did, and both out cut my 066 flat top with a long bar.. These saws are not meant for cookie cutting or <36" bars. Slap a 24" bar on an 075, 066, and 7900 and bury the bar in something, and the 075 comes in last. A 41", 50", or...

26" is too much for that saw. Honestly, for felling, a longer bar is rarely necessary on relatively flat ground. Watch some of the videos on YouTube relating to bore cutting and to European felling techniques, and you'll see what can be done with a peppy powerhead, a relatively short bar...

Roofing cement?! :msp_rolleyes:

That is both a stupid generalization and fundamentally unhelpful advice. All I cut is hardwood and find all sorts of uses for my collection of 346xp and 5100s, and even the odd 238/242. It all depends on what you're trying to do and what size trees you're working. For OP: $325 tops for a...

Nice score, lucky ###. I'd love to be able to find 7300s for $250, I'd be all over that.

$0 brake handle, $50 tank assembly, $10 clutch cover.

Come on, a 305? It's more like a 327 with aluminum heads.

$400 for my last 346xp, $450 for my last 346xpg. Both PHO, southeastern NY state.

Find a used 346xp, slap a 16" bar and 3/8" chain on it and call it good. No need to over think this. A 346 set up that way is a good firewood making machine, and it doesn't tire you out like the bigger stuff will.

Best way to manage on a budget is to get a good used quality saw, rather than a newer, cleaner cheap one. There are tons of first rate saws out there for $250 used, especially if you're handy enough to do a carb kit, or pop in a new piston/rings, etc. However, if you want to get the most out...