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edit; scratched comment because I failed reading comprehension. As to going 20" B/C in 3/8ths on a 026? I wouldn't even consider it personally, ever.

Some good info posted here and concur with the notion that you can only garner so much from an Internet forum. A good book on felling techniques is a good start, if for nothing else to learn the lingo and have a visual idea of what you should be striving for. Also the hazards to look out for...

Wow, I think I know where the 394 came from that I just finished. Had to replace every single AV buffer and spring in that beast, the two rear springs were compressed about 3/4", front about 1/2", rubbers were either gone or worn to nubs. Whole lot of WTF going on there. The bright side in...

Check continuity of kill wire and that it makes proper contact with spring contact. From my experience many times the spring contact needs tweakin' to make a good contact with the wire, but sounds like the OP has checked these things....

How many ports in muffler? Which carb? If you pull the muffler off measure the bore. Can't tell by the tank/rear handle part number, no diff

Said it before, will say it again....you did well Marine. Take your time and learn how to use that saw well. It's not rocket science, but bad habits learned early tend to be the hardest to shed later...(DAMHIK)

Ok, will set aside until you decide what you want. Yeah, I get the persistence thing......have been caught in that whirlpool more than once....

Good deal, that is the before mentioned rim sprocket set up. Easy to swap out. The "fur ball" indicates that saw attempted to eat a rope or twine or similar. Make sure to remove all that mess from clutch area. Blow out with compressed air as much as can. Dental picks work well to loosen caked on...

Here is what I have. Do you want condenser too? Anything else you see is fair game.....

I have a Mac 110 part saw in my pile O junk, is it possible the coils are the same?

If you remove the B/C, clutch cover it will make sense. Weedkilla is correct, the sprocket will have match the chain pitch. A "Rim" type sprocket is simplest, cheaper to replace...literally a couple minutes and a couple bucks. The rim is a separate piece from the clutch drum. A "spur" type...

That's an excellent point......

Ha, ha. Right? Helpful bunch that we are. At least we haven't started up with the portin' and muffler moddin' yet....

An 026 is most definitely a "pro" series saw. It is older, but stihl a goody. There was a 026 Pro that was the same exact saw but added a decompression valve for easier starting.....not sure why a Pro sawyer needs decomp but joey home owner doesn't, but there you go. Either config the saw is...

.325 is the chain pitch (measured between three of the rivets). Your saw is currently wearing a 3/8ths pitch chain, which is bigger, which means the corresponding cutter teeth are larger. What Brad posts is correct, an 026 will perform better with a .325 setup and is what is comes with standard...

That's full comp chain......you will not be happy cutting with that combo trust me. You will be frustrated and think your new-to-you saw sux, doggy because it's just too much. If you can swing another set up, do it. Either out of pocket, or see if your new dealer will be willing to help you...

Sounds like you knocked it out of the park brother! Good running 026 and a bonus on the bar/chain combo. The PPE combo sounds like a good package without knowing specific models (typically saw hat/chap combo is going to run over a Franklin). Make sure the chaps are at least the newest...

I think you did fine. A 25" bar is a bit much for that saw and it won't balance for ****, but it is a good bar and ultimately makes your deal even better. How many connector links between each cutter tooth? You may be able to get away with that setup in softwoods and running semi or full ship...

Welcome to the asylum marine, lots of good advice here, but beware of the peer pressure........you'll end up with a whole truck load of saws if not careful... The 026 is a good choice for a first saw. A smaller, lighter saw is a good thing while you learn proper saw handling and cutting...

"I'm gonna try make a jig out of steel" I might use AL if I were you, softer. But ideally it shouldn't matter because if done right that lower jig just holds the piston/rod in place and doesn't impart any lateral forces.