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Anyone ever tried a billy goat vacuum? Do they pick up saw dust?

Yeah I've got one.. Good for saw dust and apples.. Not so good on longer sticks..

Craned a double leadered 22" Manitoba maple, a 44" sugar maple, two 8" sugar maples, an 8" balsam, and 13 trembling aspens ranging from 16" to 24" today.. They were at four different sites.. Crane bill including travel time was 9.5 hours, log truck came to 2 1/2 hours, we did all the chipping...

I think your climbing ropes are too short and you should pick up a 1/2" rigging line. Your going to be taking small pieces in the learning stage and I find 5/8" line will lock up too easy in the portawrap.

By harmonics I mean how much the tree moves. The more branches you leave on the less the spar moves when your working in it.

Ill usually start on the side of my drop zone and climb up with a mechanical lanyard and my climbing line using the pair like a double ended lanyard. Ill only trim up the branches on the side of my drop zone so that leaves lots of stuff on the back side to hold my lanyard and climbing line in...

Falcons are the best I've used so far if you can get one where you are. A 12 foot stokes might not be so bad because I don't think they need those same deadly straps to support the bottom rungs. What are you using the ladder for? We only really ever buy 10's and 16's. Ten footers weigh nothing...

Ive spent nearly 2000 hours trimmin hedges off orchard ladders and if i can give you a piece of advice, dont ever buy a stokes! EXTREMELY DANGEROUS LADDER! You know when your trying out a tool and you say to yourself 'wow the guy who built this never actually tried it for more than five...

Yeah I guess your right. The location of the back cut below the notch threw me off.

Must've had a bit of back lean.. Bunch of wedges in the video and the tree is laying the exact wrong way.. Good chance she made a Dutch cut and it flipped back on top of her when she was pounding the wedge..

No, that situation is not likely for a healthy mature tree with a single trunk, properly pruned with well spaced scaffold branches and zero dead wood. But a tree like this that's cracked right into the ground with about a 100% chance of some basal rot is likely to fail at any time. Deep root...

If you weren't worried about the shed I'd say practice bracing and cabling but in all honesty that just buys time for a doomed tree. This crap about preserving trees that are cracked and obviously doomed needs to stop. People who save these trees are not heroes and they aren't saving the...